Taqueria del Mar's Gasca clan elevates the social and culinary character of our little slice of paradise.

One of the most excruciating things for me to contemplate among the vast ocean of excruciating things to contemplate is the hard reality that places one person, who might be a complete dirtbag, in a position of power, influence and privilege while sticking someone else, who might be an absolute angel, in a life of struggle, drudgery and stress.

Basically, there is no correlation between how a person lives and what a person lives like. Excruciating but true. It has taken me a lot of years to begin to accept that particular facet of human existence. More than likely, there is probably some greater understanding that transcends my paltry comprehension of the subject. However, from my less-than-exalted position in the human hierarchy, I still get pissed off at people who behave like cretins and I greatly admire people who behave nobly.

A friend of mine, who is one of the principles involved in Pepperwood Grove Winery, recently related a story to me regarding a former neighbor of his. Apparently, sometime in 1994, my pal was rooming with a Norwegian exchange student matriculating at the Monterey Institute of International Studies. One day, while returning home on his bicycle, the Norwegian fellow crashed near his house, smashing his mouth and teeth pretty badly. Alarmed, he knocked on the door of one of his neighbors.

When the homeowner answered, the injured bloke asked the gentleman (sic) if he thought medical attention was requi-red. That neighbor, in all-too-typical non- neighborly fashion, blew him off, telling our visiting scholar that he''d be fine.

At about the same time, another neighbor, Nicholas Gasca, arrived home and noticed his battered neighbor''s plight. Although his English was rather ineffective, Nicholas conveyed a concern for the Norwegian''s obvious (to one who chooses to care) discomfort, knowing that medical attention was needed. So Good Neighbor Nicholas drove bruised Norseman to the hospital and stayed with him until he was treated.

The Hero as Common Man

Nicholas Gasca is the owner and chef of Taqueria del Mar, a small, simple taqueria on Lighthouse in New Monterey. Señor Gasca has been involved with Taqueria del Mar since 1988, but the original owner decided he wanted to sell in 1996, so Nicholas managed to take over. He''s been in command ever since.

Six days a week during the slow season and seven in peak season, Nicholas, son Brian, niece Lilia Gasca and nephew Jose Arroyo crank out fresh, authentic Mexican fare at ridiculously low prices for local regulars and visiting tourists. Eschewing the use of animal fats and preparing each meal to order, Nicholas'' caring, giving spirit flows into the food and throughout the Taqueria del Mar experience.

This is a no-frills, downhome kinda spot--stop in, order at the counter, get your fork and napkin, sit down till it''s ready. Gasca is like a worker bee, efficiently and quietly droning away at the steady pace of a lifelong craftsman, serenely assembling dish after dish, meal after meal. Then, at the end of each day, he scrubs and cleans, closes down and goes home. Next day, he''s at it again.

He brings to mind the scene in the movie A Bronx Tale, when DeNiro is lecturing his son about what a true hero is. The hero is the guy who gets up every day for 20 years and goes to a job so he can make a better life for his family. That''s what Nicholas is.

I found out about this place from my friend, the wine guy. He''s the one who told me about the epic stature of this man and his family. He told me about how, when he lived nearby, the Gasca family would bring him soup when he was sick--you know, real neighborly.

Those are the people you want cooking your meals. People who give without pretense are the people who infuse love into the meals they prepare. Food like that nourishes the whole being.

Ethno-Expressions of Everyday Life

Although busiest at lunchtime--when local employees of the Aquarium and other various businesses in the area come in--there is a steady flow of folks throughout the day. This is the kind of place you can come to six or eight times a week to get a quick fix of the real-deal burritos and tacos and specialty seafood dishes like pescado al mojo de ajo (rock cod filet sautéed in olive oil, garlic, tomatoes and onions), which is served with black beans and Mexican rice. That is one killer dish. The fish is flaky and flavorful in its little puddle of delicious sauce brimming with colors and flavors of all different kinds, which synthesize into a harmonious whole.

Another gran espectacolo is the seafood chimichanga--a crispy, grilled burrito stuffed with cheese, shrimp and seafood, and topped with sour cream and pico de gallo. The shell is crépe-like in texture, with the nutty flavor one gets when grilling a simple dough with a little butter. The chimichanga''s delicate shrimp and fresh fish contents sang to me the song of fishermen throughout the world who fabricate their indigenous seafood into personal ethno-expressions of everyday life.

This is a good joint. It''s an honest eatery run by people with genuine humility and integrity who are kind and hardworking. They are the kind of people who make a community strong, just by being part of it. If anything, the prices are probably too low.

Sometimes, when prices are very low, it attracts the bottom feeders in society, the ones who shop only by price and then empty the napkin holders to stock their own cabinets or perform other such acts of silly behavior. They are the ones that I want to smack in the head for taking advantage of such sweet, giving souls like Nicholas Gasca and his clan.

But, like I said, sometimes I have trouble accepting the way things are.

Give Taqueria del Mar a shot. It''s worth it.

Taqueria del Mar is located at 530 Lighthouse in New Monterey and can be contacted by calling 372-7887.