Reviving the all-American backyard herb garden.

Photo by Randy Tunnell: Green History: The Casa del Oro garden in the historic neighborhood of downtown Monterey features herbs in pots, as did may home gardens throughout American history.

It was long known, and has been slowly forgotten, that certain plants contain delightful tastes and medicinal secrets-cherished by our ancestors, and generally home-grown. Fresh and dried herbs can be an instant source, right out of the yard, for calming down a toothache or spicing up a tomato sauce.

Oregano enhances pasta sauce; fresh basil makes the most exquisite pesto; rosemary gives a sweet kiss to roast chicken; chamomile makes a soothing tea. Echinacea, garlic and ginseng work wonders on colds; lavender reduces stress and nausea; parsley relieves rheumatism and is good for hair and skin; to give subtle color to some fabric, saffron makes a yellow dye, marigolds turn things orange, elecampane makes a blue hue, dandelion creates a surprising magenta, and of course henna imparts a rich reddish-brown.

There are hundreds of herbs that may be grown in a backyard corner or in terracotta pots inside the house. Chick Goodman, national sales manager of Quail Mountain Herbs in Watsonville, says the microclimates of Monterey County are ideal for a variety of plants.

"The best growers here are rosemary, thyme, basil and mint," Goodman says. "We have nine ranches on the Central Coast, from Elkhorn Slough down [to the] south, and different things grow best in each place. There are not many herbs that grow poorly."

The relatively low-maintenance aspect is one of the most appealing things about herbs, says Shannon McCarthy, co-owner of the Garden Gallery in Big Sur and creator of Mountain Maiden herbal cosmetics.

"This is a fabulous climate for herbs," she says. "The most common ones are heat-tolerant, drought-tolerant, and they don''t need expensive soils. Anything from the sage family, rosemary and basil thrives here. Lavender is everywhere. You should plant dill, fennel, and marjoram near the end of spring when it''s warm."

The most important things to remember in starting an herb garden are to plant in full sun (or in a south-facing window) and to have good soil drainage. For the purist, herbs may be carefully germinated from seeds, but for us average gardeners, herb starts are available from nurseries around the county and by mail order.

Whether starting from seed or seedling, use "poor" soil which has a high content of peat moss and sand for good drainage. Start plants indoors, or outdoors after the risk of cold nights has passed. In pots and indoor planters, a layer of sand or even gravel in the bottom keeps roots from being overwatered. In fact, soil pre-packaged for cactus has been recommended in Herbs for All Seasons, a practical herb guide by Sally Freeman.

Once the seedlings have a few good-sized leaves, they need to be transplanted to six-inch pots, or into garden beds with low-acidity soil. Depending on the size of the mature plant, beds should be arranged with low-growing plants, such as creeping thyme near the edges, and taller plants such as sage and rosemary in the center or back row. This makes everything visible and accessible.

"Go organic!" says McCarthy, especially for herbs, where flavors are highly concentrated and the healing properties work best in an untreated state. "And mulching is key in a Central Coast herb garden because it uses less water and keeps weeds out."

When plants are about to flower or ripen, generally in mid-summer in Monterey County, it''s time to harvest, since the oils that give herbs their best flavor and medicinal qualities are strongest then.

To dry herb branches, hang them in bunches in a cool and dry place. While dried herbs have more concentrated taste, fresh herbs can be used immediately for cooking and healing. According to Goodman, fresh herbs were the fastest growing section in supermarkets last year.

Once your plants are established for a few months, with moderate watering and some natural fertilizer, the garden should progress smoothly with little effort. But if you don''t have the "ideal" conditions-full sun, south-facing windows, well-draining soil-that most herbs love, fragrant and tasty greens can still be in your yard.

One uniquely Monterey place to visit if you get stuck with your herb adventures is the historic Casa del Orp Herb Garden and Store. Just off Pacific Street across from California''s First Theater is a small yard of plants that might have been used in the 1800s, tended by docents from the Monterey Historic Garden League. Thomas Larkin built the adobe in the 1840s; it was eventually sold to David Jacks. Legend has it that miners used to store their booty there, hence "the House of Gold." Spearmint is prevalent, likely used for good digestion and calming nerves.

McCarthy''s knowledge of Monterey County herb gardening comes from, among other things, five years working in Post Ranch Inn''s garden, giving tours to guests and happily participating in making herbal ice cream. She also does wild-crafting and nature hikes in Big Sur.

Quail Mountain Herbs supplies herbs and edible flowers to markets and fine restaurants around the country. About half its business is to the food service industry. Its delicacies have shown up in the White House and on ocean liners.

If you have room for an herb garden, or even several plants spread through the yard, you''ll be rewarded not only with fresh additions for your kitchen, but an Eden of aromas and a variety of colors, for many herbs have flowers which are beautiful and useful. If you get inspired after a few plants, try a theme. An Italian garden with basil, oregano, cilantro and garlic? A Sweets garden with mint, anise, fennel and scented geraniums? A Blue Flower garden of borage, lavender, rosemary, winter savory and hyssop? Just let your imagination and taste buds in.