One critic's guide to Monterey County's top destination wine stores.

If I had a ten-dollar bill for every time I''m asked what my favorite wine is, well, I''d be drinking a lot more Burgundy. What, do I have the question stamped on my forehead or something?

Luckily, when asked by my editor about my favorite wine shop, I was given the option to list more than one. Here they are, and not in any particular order of preference.

Terranova Fine Wines

315 Calle Principal, Monterey, 333-1313, www.terranovafinewines.com

What a great location for a wine shop featuring the finest local wines. Tourists come in droves from the Marriott and DoubleTree hotels and leave with the hard-to-find cherries. What''s most appealing, though, is that the selection includes wines from all over the globe. Looking for Icewine? There are half a dozen here. Looking for Barolo? The same holds true. Friendly service is a plus.

Rancho Cellars

26340 Carmel Rancho, Carmel, 625-5646, www.ranchocellars.com

In addition to a world-class selection with a heavy focus on local wines, this shop offers wine tasting at Cepage, its cozy little wine bar, and offers a regular series of wine classes through UC Santa Cruz. If you want enthusiasm, talk to Jacques Melac or Dylan Sheldon. Their eyes light up and the rest--as they say--ends up in the trunk of your car.

The Cheese Shop

Carmel Plaza, Carmel, 625-2272 or 800/828-WINE

OK, who started this whole wine and cheese thing, anyway? Well, if any one person could be held responsible, I would say it would be the very knowledgeable and quite charming Kent Torrey. Torrey is one of the finest cheese and wine pairing experts in the world, and his shop is well supplied with the best of both products. His passion trickles down to the friendly staffers, who offer tastes of cheeses and make recommendations.

Zeph''s One Stop

1366 S. Main, Salinas, 757-3947

Microbrews are still a specialty here, but since the arrival of long time local wine guru George Edwards, they are often overlooked. Edwards also teaches on-site classes and hosts tastings once a month.

Trader Joe''s

1170 Forest, Pacific Grove, 656-0180, www.traderjoes.com

Yes, you''ve heard me say it before: Walk the wine aisles here. Skip the $2.99-$4.99 "bargains." Those days are long gone. However, this oenological emporium excels in $6-10 range offerings. You''ll not have much luck getting wine advice in the shop, but click on TJ''s Website and check out "Party Planning" for some tips. Buy a bottle of something that catches your attention. Then, if it also catches your fancy, go back and get a case of the stuff. The gems sell out quickly and may not be available again.

Costco Wholesale

801 Tioga, Sand City, 899-1255, www.costco.com

David Andrew, my colleague and fellow Master of Wine candidate (although he is light years closer to finishing the program than I), has dramatically improved the selection at this mega-chain since he came on board a few years ago. Premium French, Italian, Spanish, Australian, Chilean and American wines are available now in addition to the big-volume generics. You won''t get personal service here but you get the best prices in town.

Whole Foods Market

800 Del Monte Center, Monterey, 333-1600, www.wholefoodsmarket.com

I love the sometimes quirky, off-the-beaten-path selections here, especially in the $7-14 price range. Points and popularity have nothing to do with the selection. Many items are unique, balanced and go well with food.

Meridian Vineyards Syrah Paso Robles 1998 This is a flashy, full-throttle wine, with cinnamon, nutmeg, mocha and cassis aromas and flavors that easily could have gone overboard. Tannins--those components that can sometimes dry out your mouth--came to the rescue. The round, luscious palate is buttressed with firm but integrated oak tannins. [$15]

Stags'' Leap Chardonnay Napa Valley 1999 Fragrance--especially that of fresh cut flowers--jumps out of the glass instead of the usual suspects: oak and butter. This wine has a full and creamy palate with another unusual component: petrol. Petrol as a wine descriptor usually refers to a character that comes out as Rieslings age, though on occasion it''s found in California chardonnays. Sweet vanilla comes out on the finish (the aftertaste). This is a pleasant change of pace from that sea of one-dimensional chardonnays and a reminder that great wines don''t have to cost big bucks. [$22]

Quintessa Rutherford Napa Valley Red Wine 1998 And this is a reminder that great wines sometimes do cost a lot of money. This pricey number offers up sweet creamy vanilla on the nose, thanks to pricey new French oak barrels. Fruit is restrained on the nose because the wine is young and built to last. Intense berry fruit on the palate is somewhat masked by the sweet oak. The wine is very polished, very intense, but not a blockbuster. It is a very elegant drink now, though time in a cellar would give the wine a chance to show all of its true colors. [$95]