Limited access on Highway 1 creates hardship, but also some magic, in Big Sur.

The paved, two-lane portion of Highway 1 through Big Sur is an attraction unto itself. It’s also the artery that residents, employees, emergency responders and tourists use to get to and from the remote community. With access limited on all sides – on the South Coast, due to three separate slides, and due to a slip-out to the north at Rocky Creek Bridge – travel into and out of Big Sur has been a chore as much as a scenic attraction.

After the southbound lane collapsed down the cliff on March 30, Caltrans opened twice-daily convoy access to local traffic and essential workers only in the remaining northbound lane. In the six weeks since, vehicles have lined up to pass in either direction at 7am and 5pm daily.

It’s meant Big Sur is not quite an island – there’s still access to town, but life south of the convoy is quieter and free of crowds.

“There are these really beautiful glimmers of magic that can only happen when it’s quiet like this,” says Diana Ballantyne, general manager of Fernwood Resort.

But Ballantyne, the “mother hen” responsible for 44 employees, has also been stressed; 40 are laid off. She expected 1,500 campground nights in April. Instead, she sold just two campground nights.

That was before Caltrans announced the general public could also travel through the convoy point, but even since that change took effect two weeks ago on April 29, tourism activity has been slow. And each reservation requires a discussion with a prospective guest about convoy travel. “Every conversation with a guest is at least 15 minutes on the phone. You talk about their dog sitter schedule. You go through the whole thing and then they says, ‘Eh, I don’t think that’s going to work for me,’” Ballantyne says.

Fernwood is planning to staff up for the Hipnic music festival May 17-19, and the highway will open to 24/7 traffic just in time. Caltrans announced on May 14 that traffic signals will be ready to replace the convoy starting at 6:30am on Friday, May 17, providing one-way traffic control.

Even so, people expect the ramp-up to be slow.

“Consumer confidence in Big Sur as a destination product is at an all-time low,” says Matt Glazer, general manager of Deetjen’s, where 36 of 42 employees faced a reduction in hours and $250,000 in room stays were refunded. “Getting the word out about being reopened is more difficult because the news cycle talks about the disaster.”