Over There
Editor’s note: The Weekly sent beer correspondent George Peterson to Ireland to connect pub heartland with our coastal community. OK, he was already going there. But he still paused over a pint and offered these observations:
An anonymous quote decorates a Dublin window. “Dream me a city where I can be myself,” it reads. “Where brewery hops drift on the morning breeze, and a tin whistle swells your soul. Where the rain sparks the cobbles, laughter surrounds, and a nation’s woes are solved from a barstool. Where ales grow taller, and old friends become new. Where conversations start as day ends. Dream me a city and I’ll show you Dublin. And you will feel home.”
I definitely feel at home at places like Grogan’s, where you’ll find no music or television, just magistrates, politicians and everyday citizens – and the sound of glasses clinking to cheer.
Before the boom times, the pubs were only open on Sundays after mass from noon until 2pm because Irish wives were tired of their husbands heading to the pub straight from church not to be seen or heard from again until late Sunday night, missing the family dinner. The family would pile into the pub while the parents drank Guinness as fast as they could and the kids ran wild through the streets of Dublin.
My favorite traditional pubs still open in Dublin pour the best pint of Guinness you’ll ever taste, paired with great conversation sown from the fabric of everyday Irish life, toasting “Sláinte mhaith” – to good health!
In western Ireland, the pubs fill up at night with locals, tourists and traditional Irish music. Sometimes the band stops and an old-timer sings a lament, a remnant of the ancient traditions of storytelling by the Gaelic bards of over 400 years ago. The entire pub stops to listen and people come in off the street to hear of a lost love, family member or death of an Irish patriot. It’s truly special.
Right Here
High-quality brews appear in some unexpected places in Monterey County.
Cafe Lumiere
365 Calle Principal, Monterey 920-2451, www.cafelumieremonterey.com
Skip the coffee. Look for smart beers on draft, including Old Rasputin, and craft cans.
Food Corner Market
1800 Noche Buena St., Seaside 394-5910
A funky neighborhood bodega with a stunning craft beer selection.
Grocery Outlet
Marina Village Shopping Center, 215 Reservation Road, Marina, 1548 Calaveras St., Seaside
The Marina and Seaside locations throw out a nice selection of beers like Firestone and Stone, often a few bucks cheaper.
La Piccola Casa
212 17th St., Pacific Grove 373-0129
Three microbrews on tap and half a dozen bottles to wash it down with while you watch the Sharks or Warriors or Giants on a 60-inch TV.
Lokal
13750 Center St., Carmel Valley 659-5886
The affordable six drafts (above) rotate and include things like Amendment’s Back in Black IPA and Chesebro Winery’s Dry Apple Cider.
Roger Food & Liquor
Marina Village Shopping Center, 215 Reservation Road, Marina 384-0700
The locals’ go-to runs a wide assortment of novelty and regional beers like Ballast Point’s Sculpin IPA and Lost Coast Brewery’s Sharkinator.
Salinas City BBQ
700 W. Market St., Salinas 758-2227, www.salinascitybbq.com
The barbecue masters rotate through stylish small-batch beers like Fieldwork’s Chocolate Milk Brown and Mike Hess Brewing’s Jucundus.
Taste of Vietnam
1868 Fremont Blvd., Seaside 394-8855, www.tovrestaurant.com
Nearly 20 draft taps (really) flow Deschutes Fresh-Squeezed IPA, Big Daddy IPA, Arrogant Bastard and more.
Valley Greens Gallery
16 E. Carmel Valley Road, Carmel Valley, 620-2985, www.valleygreensgallery.com
The uniquely high-gravity craft beer selection is small but mighty, served at a small bar in the back of the urban art gallery.
Whole Enchilada Marketplace
7990 Highway 1, Moss Landing 632-2628
The small shop sells deep-fried artichoke hearts and tri-tip sandwiches next to two big produce stands, but inside at a recently redone bar they have $4 draft beers, including three local brews from Peter B’s and English Ales, with more taps added earlier this year.
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