Dark Force

As fall lengthens, colors begin to change. The bright glimmering gold and amber deepen until they turn dark and brooding.

Late fall and winter is the season for hearty beers – rich, creamy and contemplative, dreary to the eye, but resonating with flavor, hefty like a blanket yet also smooth. Christmas beers offer sensations of warm spice and dried fruits suited to the holidays. But the team at Other Brother Beer Co. chose to take a stout in that same festive mood – without the whopping belt of alcohol.

Max Cherry weighs in at 6.5 percent. It’s strong, but with a more relaxed presence. The name suggests bold strokes, but its aromas are quiet, revealing only a notion of toasted coffee bean. Take a sip, however, and the beer unleashes what can only be described as holiday comfort. There are swirls of black cherry, vanilla and malted chocolate, as if the brewer had blended flavored Coca-Cola. An impression of mild coffee – Folgers comes to mind – emerges on the finish, preceded by a light sensation of candied fruit.

None of this is overt. Grounded notes of toasted grain and minerality mute considerations of sweetness. Max Cherry’s swagger is deftly balanced.

This is a stout for the season of chocolate-dipped cherries, vanilla-scented pastries and warming mugs of coffee. Other Brother’s Max Cherry needs only a fireplace, a favorite recliner and a long winter night.

OTHER BROTHER BEER CO., 877 Broadway Ave., Seaside. (831) 747-1106, otherbrotherbeer.com.

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