Like any other wine, Chardonnay is subject to its particular terroir. More than many others, however, it also follows the winemaker’s lead. Treat Chardonnay to a quick dip in stainless steel and a bracing wine emerges. Allow it to rest in oak, and the result can be rich and buttery.
Between ends of the spectrum, there is the 2024 Chardonnay from Cowgirl Winery. Aged in French oak, it gains enough opulence to temper sharp edges. Yet it loses none of the lean, ripe fruits of a light and refreshing style.
It teases the nose, whispering of bright, tropical fruits while at the same time dangling notions of apple pie and lemon curd. This duplicitous introduction unfolds on the palate as an intricate, mannered and delicately balanced wine. There is a lot to contemplate, but ripe apples – both yellow and green, genteel and animated – are forefront throughout, yielding only on the lingering finish to the brisk expression of lemon.
Still, time in oak gives the Cowgirl Chardonnay a mellow temperament. There is an impression of French pastries and sliced almonds – toasty and nutty, with just a trace of vanilla. But it remains buoyant and fruity. There is none of the plump, buttery weight of the big California Chardonnays.
When grapes were harvested, the 2024 vintage promised spellbinding wines. The Chardonnay from Cowgirl is a white wine that fans of reds can fully appreciate.
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