Crystal Fish

514 Lighthouse Ave., Monterey

649-3474

www.crystalfishsushi.com

Once considered the stuff of intrepid epicurean travelers, the dawn of the California roll turned raw fish dressed with umami veggies into the “forage of the Young Urban Professional.” The menu here is dashed with red diamonds indicating “spicy.” The nigiri, laid out with the choice soft yellowtail, salmon and albacore, masters both Californians’ lust for creative fish and the clean, texture-based palate of fine, fresh Monterey seafood (and prepping the taste buds for a mild, refreshing beer). Specials like the Mars Attack (baby fried octopus) and Wasabi Bomb (wasabi-flavored pork dumpling), both $6.95, solidify their modern Japanese street cred, while crisp, fresh vegetarian rolls like the Big Apple roll—with apple, cream cheese, cucumber and pine nuts on top—could just replace the ubiquitous C-roll with style.