Simple elegance is the forte of bartender Andrew Boggan at Sea Root in Monterey’s Hyatt Regency. Yes, the phrase can be – and has been – tossed around far too casually until it sheds any definition. Like “curated” and “artisanal,” it has been rendered so often that the substance that once made it so striking now eludes us. But it is again finding its form in the specialty cocktail list Boggan is rolling out, focused on base spirits and a few quick measures.
“People are fed up with waiting 20 minutes for a cocktail,” he says, referring to the tendency of “mixologists” to be exceedingly precious with ingredients. “There’s a way to get a clean, precise cocktail out.”
His take on a classic French 75 involves gin already infused with grapefruit and cardamom, a simple syrup prepared with honey and rosemary and a splash of local Rosé. The M.T. 55 – ask him to explain – is bright and fresh with a swirl of herbs and a nip of honey on the finish. Meyer’s Grove is a brisk, floral sip with a hint of zest that brings to mind orchards and meadow grass bathed by sunlight. And he creates this impression from Meyer lemon infused vodka, St. Germain and some lemon juice, topped with soda for a lively expression.
These are light, fun and also masterful. Boggan plans to play local and seasonal as much as he can. He also intends to draw on ingredients from places on ancient spice trade routes, keeping with the restaurant vibe.
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