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In 2016, the Italian city of Verona sought to ban restaurants that were not sufficiently native. The goal was to preserve culinary tradition.
Although the dish is popular at La Tortuga in Seaside, owner Elijah Vasquez struggles to explain it.
Centerpiece
As the story goes, the Culcasi family was treated to meatloaf every Tuesday. Jim Culcasi Sr., Rosine and their children opened Rosine’s in Mon…
“Do you know how much bad fried chicken is out there?”
Any discussion of the American South and its history quickly becomes snarled as problematic notions of heritage, symbolism, myth and race inte…