A new aperitif from Pepe gives a simple spritz a reason to party.

There are rituals to follow at cultured affairs, particularly when it comes to serving liqueurs. Aperitifs are intended to awaken the appetite, digestifs to conclude a meal. The former tend to be dry and low in alcohol, the latter generally bellowing with bitterness and raspy herbs, although a sweet finish is also allowed. Sparkling wine, with its lean, crisp, bubbly spirit, plays a celebratory role, both welcoming dinner or toasting a new year.

Such are the rules. Yet the folks at Pepe International – think Vesuvio, Little Napoli and Bar Napoli, all in Carmel – recently introduced a play on Aperol that bends the rules just a little.

Pepero Aperitivo di Sorrento claims the pre-meal banner. And it is inviting, with floral pleasantries and a compelling sensation of candied orange zest. But they eased strawberries into the recipe, which lends a bright sweetness to the profile that almost – but not quite – obscures its dry aperitif character.

All of this makes Pepero enjoyable on its own. However, it was crafted with bubbles in mind. And in spritz form, fruits spring onto the palate, trailing a friendly effervescence, leaving bitter, herbal notes to follow. Those emerge on the finish, coaxed by a tingle of salinity from club soda. Prosecco offers a subtle minerality that plays nicely with the fluttering floral hints. It’s lighthearted and charming – a celebration from start to finish.

The Pepero spritz is thus a versatile cocktail, one that can usher in a meal or close out a year.

Pepero Aperitivo di Sorrento by the bottle can be found at Bar Napoli, Dolores and 7th, Carmel. 626-7373.