Raymond Napolitano

WE ♥ YOU BILL… I had already sent off this edition of this column when I received a phone call from Cheryl Warner telling me that BILL LEE had been stricken with a pretty serious heart attack. Apparently he was in the throes of the episode when he drove himself to Salinas Valley Memorial, where he had to undergo surgery to plant various stints throughout (I really don’t know much about that or how its done). Anyway, from what I know he is in good spirits and for all I will know by the time this comes out a week later, he may be home and recovering well.

For all the people in this area, not to mention the tens of thousands of visitors he has entertained over the past three-plus decades with his special brand of hospitality, it is important that you take a moment to send Bill, Theresa and their family and loved ones a huge dose of love, because that has been what he has been administering to us all in the style of truly great restaurant people. Don’t for a second doubt what type of toll restaurants take on the people that drive them. Great hospitality people give so much each day, emotionally, physically and spiritually. Bill Lee and the rare folks like him are benefactors of society and we need them desperately. Get well Bill.

TAKE A SEAT… PASSIONFISH has new chairs. Now it will be even more difficult to extricate yourself from that restaurant, which has always been my problem (can’t tell you how many times they’ve thrown me and my crowd out so they could go home). I think they should rent the tables for the whole night. It’s easy enough, just track each table’s revenue per night over the course of six months to a year, then charge enough as a rental fee to ensure at least making that cost back. I’d pay for the table for the whole evening. Feel free to use this idea, any joint out there, on me, especially if you have comfortable chairs.

Savvy restaurateurs always consider the comfort of chairs when designing a restaurant, especially those in high volume situations. You want the customers to be comfortable, but not so comfortable that you can’t turn tables.

EAT EARLY OR SHUT UP… In a market like this one, where the dinner crowd seems to go out at exactly the same time, it’s essential to be able to get a quick turn out of as many of your tables as possible, otherwise you won’t be able to capture enough of that concentrated rush of people who just have to eat between about 6:30 and 7:45pm. A tip for diners: eat earlier or later and enjoy your favorite restaurant when the staff isn’t so busy—they can pay a bit more attention to you.

CELEBS DO LOVE US… So, my boy EMERIL showed up at the SARDINE FACTORY last Sunday or whenever…guess he wanted to find out how it’s done.

OTHER PEOPLE’S PLEASURES… Speaking of the Factory, Cellar Master MARC CUTINO recently enjoyed a trip to the Jacksonville, Florida area with Young’s Market Key Accounts Manager JOE CINGARI for a few days of fun, industry hoopla and a bit of golf—at TPC at Sawgrass—that’s right, the one with the amazing island green on 17, the Pete Dye vunder-course that hosts every year’s PLAYERS CHAMPIONSHIP. Must be nice to be in charge of one of the best wine lists in the world. So, they had a great time (both are like poster boys for the over-swinging—in golf silly, in golf—set, the leader of which is of course John Daly) and to top it off, won a trip to Australia for the foursome that played. Now Joe and Marc will have to endure a roll-out-the-red-carpet trip to Australia for more wine industry perks and the difficult task of playing Royal Melbourne, another of the world’s great courses. How jealous am I.

NOT A DAY OVER 19… It’s still hard to believe that Fifi’s Café & Bistro, that venerable eating establishment at the top of Forest in Pacific Grove, is in its 20th year. Even harder to believe, when you look at her, is that MICHELE WILKES has been working as hard as she does there the whole time—she’s a miracle of nature. Meanwhile, her daughter Thalia, who was born on the day Michele and ex-husband Philippe opened the bakery across the parking lot from where Fifi’s now stands, has grown up in the restaurant business. You can catch her there on Tuesday nights picking up where Michele leaves off, doing everything with grace, charm and a huge helping of cute.

Stop by Fifi’s and check out the new setup—thick, glamorous red velvet curtains, always great music, excellent food and wine, candles and now Table 19, just inside the door to the left…that’s all I’m going to say. Like CALVIN WILKES says, “if you can’t afford CLUB XIX, come to Fifi’s and sit at Table 19.” I couldn’t have put it better myself. Table 19 will be in action, along with a beautiful 10-top in the back section of the restaurant for the upcoming GUEST CHEF WINE DINNERS on August 13th and the 27th.

DELISH DISHES… First up on the 13th will be KAREN ANN MURRAY of Eddison and Melrose in Sand City. She’s a classically trained international chef who grew up in the same city in England as Calvin. She’s preparing a great multi-course meal highlighted by OSSO BUCCO. Calvin is matching wonderful wines to go with it and the new wine dinner style will be one seating for 18 people total, so it’s going to be a tough ticket.

On the 27th KEVIN PARCASIO will be preparing a dinner that will include Filet Mignon with a Star Anise, Black Bean Demi-Glaze that Michele called, “one of the best preparations I’ve ever tasted.” Parcasio is a private chef for upscale clients in Palo Alto and San Francisco. Of course, Calvin will be rockin’ the wines, including some 1998 Lupicaia. Again, just 18 seats, so book fast and book hard. The phone number is 372-5325.

SO MUCH TO DO… Hey, next Friday, the 19th, it’s here; now you know I’ve been hammering at you for a while about this so get on your horse-power and get tickets to THE QUAIL, A Motorsports Gathering. It’s at Quail Lodge and is a daylong gala celebration of the good life; cars, art, food, wine, music, jewelry—the stuff that dreams are made of. Put on your best country club gear and enjoy the day’s activities, knowing that you’ll be helping out both the FRIENDS OF CARMEL UNIFIED SCHOOL DISTRICT’s programs as well as THE CHP 11-99 FOUNDATION, which aids families of California Highway Patrol members who have lost their lives in the line of duty. Call 877-734-4628 or check out www.quaillodge.com…GARY IBSEN of the TOMATOFEST called me last week and said that friends were coming up to him thinking I was mad at him or something because I wrote about not being asked to judge the tomato recipe contest and saying I was going to see Emeril Lagasse instead—people, you have to start reading things with a bit more discernment. You know that much of what I write is with tongue firmly planted in cheek. Stop being so over-reactive. Thankfully, Gary got the joke—by the way, he’ll be forwarding the results of the contest shortly. Meanwhile buy your TomatoFest tickets—it’s right around the corner on September 11, 625-6041 or www.tomatofest.com.

EVEN MORE?… Join Chef Brian Curry of RISTORANTE AVANTI Aug. 13 on a Earthbound Farms Chef Walk through the crops, picking and plucking, then a cooking demo then an eating demo. Call 625-6219 or visit www.ebfarm.com…Those wacky folks at HAHN/SMITH AND HOOK are up to it again with the release of Red Flyer wines, more on that later on…PEP TALK, at Whole Foods’ Salud Room, the 18th with Stefano Biscotto on the wines of Italy (I know this guy, he’s great), call 333-1600. Ciao bambini.