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It used to be the Tyler Street Bar and Grill, before standing empty for more than a year, but since June, this part of downtown Monterey has another dining option that sushi fanciers will find of special interest. A complete Japanese menu plus sushi, sashimi and--when the right crowd assembles--karaoke can now be found at Koto Japanese Restaurant.

After more than 20 years in the restaurant business in Southern California, Hideyo and Myong Ogawa aren't new to the food scene. The former owners of Myong's in Marina decided to try out a new neighborhood, and they've been pleased with the change since bringing their style of Japanese cuisine downtown.

Hideyo's training under a sushi master began much earlier, back in Japan. "It can take 10 years or more to come up through the ranks when you're training in Japan," says Hideyo. "Here, it's more advanced. You can be shown more in less time." The precision knife work that yields such delicately artful results appears entertainingly formidable to the observer. But Hideyo maintains that making sushi is actually very easy. "It's the learning that is never-ending," he reflects.

"When you have a sushi restaurant, you are always having to make judgments about the kind of fish to use; what is available, what is good for the season, good for your market and always of the best quality. I'm always learning," he adds. And for those who are just beginning to appreciate the delicious intricacies of sushi, Hideyo offers to clear up a common misconception: "Sushi is rolled, can be made with raw, cooked or marinated fish or seafood, and always made with rice. Sashimi is often raw fish, but sometimes uses cooked or marinated fish or seafood, and always without rice."

The one sure thing is that if seafood is your thing, there's nothing that can quite compare to fresh, firm, icy cold tekka over a perfect bite of piquant rice, enlivened with a sinus rush of wasabi and followed with the tingly, palate-cleansing sweetness of pickled ginger. (Sushi and sashimi lovers are a devout bunch who claim it's an acquired addiction.) And Koto's menu offers several ways to indulge, either seated stage-side at the sushi bar or at one of several tables under the giant TV screen.

One of the most popular lunch and dinner choices is the box combination, the lacquered Japanese compartment tray that's way more fun (and appetizing) than what the school lunch program used to offer. It's your choice of tempura, teriyaki, broiled items like mackerel or squid, or California rolls, served next to a green salad, rice and miso soup. Or, if you're just shopping sushi and sashimi, the menu is extensive with almost endless combinations that may utilize yellow tail, salmon, tuna, halibut, octopus, prawns, and red snapper. The treasure boat combination for two people--sashimi, nigiri, sushi, 28 pieces in all, plus tempura and teriyaki--should eliminate indecision.

The range of choices continues from there, with abundant seafood, beef, pork, chicken and noodle dishes. Teppan yaki is done with all of the above, and served grilled and sizzling on a hot plate. The deep-fried oysters are much in demand, as well as other interesting items like grilled squid, done both with teriyaki sauce or plain, with fresh grated ginger. Typical Japanese fare like chicken and beef sukiyaki or yosenabe are also plentiful, as well as a lengthy list of appetizers.

Koto Japanese Restaurant

420 Tyler St., Monterey, 642-9041

Hours: Lunch 11:30am-2pm Monday-Friday, Dinner 5-10pm or later, Monday-Saturday, Closed Sunday

Price range: $2-12