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If you speak schnitzel or have been meaning to learn, it might be time to throw on your dirndl, grab your liebling, and head on over to Seaside. You'll find no fewer than five varieties of schnitzel preparations on the Stammtisch menu, and Erwin and Claudia Moritz may be found in the kitchen, laboring over each dish.

On busy nights you'll also find them sprinting through the swinging door, hefting steaming platters of schnitzel and sausages to their eager guests, all of whom should be warned: Here, you are required to bring your appetite.

Authentically German and un-apologetically hearty, the menu is robust and nobody exits hungry. Claudia is keenly philosophical about keeping the right attitude: "If you feel bad before you eat the first bite, you've already gained the first pound." She also admits that they use a lot of styrofoam take-home containers.

The jagerschnitzel is a perfect case in point. Dwarfing the plate underneath, it's deliciously tender and juicy inside with a crisply perfect, breaded exterior, and a flavorful mushroom gravy to sop up with spatzle; it's European soul food at its indulgent best. When the schnitzel is served plain, it's simply wienerschnitzel; zigeuner denotes a Gypsy-style preparation, with a spicy green and red bell pepper gravy; and Stammtischschnitzel comes with bacon, saut‚ed onions and mushrooms. Add a layer of cheese and smother it with mushroom gravy, the Stammtisch is transformed into the hausschnitzel.

Growing up in Germany and Austria, respectively, Claudia and Erwin met while working in the restaurant business, together opting for a place of their own in America. Taking over the restaurant in 1992, Claudia fluently recalls barely speaking a word of English as they began the process of building a steady clientele.

The Moritz's base their reputation on painstakingly making everything the old-fashioned way, taking the time every day to make the potato and bread dumplings, and spatzle. And the rindsroulade, the thin beef steak that is rolled around a piquant stuffing of bacon, onions and pickles, served in a red wine gravy alongside a complement of red cabbage. And the zwiebelsuppe, made similar to the French style, rich with caramelized onions, comes in its own roasted onion bowl.

Other specialties like sauerbraten, the classical roast beef dish that requires a two day soak in red wine, has become a regular first-of-the-month weekend special. The schlachterplatt, or butcher's plate, is often in demand for lovers of traditional German sausages, piled high on a platter with spicy mustard, home fried potatoes, and sauerkraut.

Lunch portions are only slightly scaled down, but for less intense appetites there is a sizable selection of salads. (A wurstsalad among them, made with sliced veal loaf with cheese, onions and tomatoes.)

As might be imagined, Oktoberfest at Stammtisch offers ample opportunities for feasting. The festivities are spread out over three weekends, starting with September 19th and continuing on October 3rd and the 24th. Twelve German beers, an interesting variety of German wines, and live music and dancing create a festive scene with platters of smoked hamhocks, some six pounds at the time, cause quite a stir as they're produced for carving in the front of the house.

Although the menu is large, the Moritzs confess that sometimes they get requests for other Bavarian-style specialties, not found on the menu. They happily accommodate these requests by group reservation. And strongly suggest bringing an appetite.