Lattitudes kicks off with rocking fresh seafood.

A crabby mood can change your outlook. At the recently opened Lattitudes at Lovers Point, it makes the view that much better.

And the view was awfully nice before—an indication of what one of Lattitudes’ Crab Rangoons ($8.95) can do for you. Or a touch of the “House Specialty” Corn and Crab Chowder ($6.95). Or, for that matter, the Stuffed Mushrooms with Crabmeat ($9.95).

These respective crustacean tastes launched three visits. In each case, neither the crab nor the accompanying experience disappointed.

Apparently restauranteur Tene (as in “teeny”) Shake—so nicknamed as the youngest of the five Shake brothers—was confident in this eventuality when he opened this, his third restaurant, in May. His menu announces he’s won recipe awards and has a seafood cookbook and more restaurants coming. To those not familiar with his genetic predisposition toward tasty coastal cuisine—if you’re not, time to put down the remote—this may ring a little boastful.

But the rangoons back him up.

Between fellow seafood afficionado Alexandra and I, the six crispy, stuffed wontons and small jacuzzi of spicy rice wine-mango sauce don’t seem to stand a chance. But within their bellies lies an indulgent dollop of Dungeness crab meat and garlic cream that satisfies beyond its size. Teamed with a generous tangle of expertly fried “house specialty” calamari ($10.95)—a superior if salty dish worthy of the Shake name—sunset in the “Loungitudes” bar (nicely decorated but worthy of more loungy seating) needs no other additive. Not that the Cadillac Margarita ($5.95) and Caribbean Rita ($6.95) in oversized glasses hurt. And while the piano stands dormant, it’s since come alive Thursday through Monday 7 to 11pm.

On a Friday evening, a picturesque Rec Trail delivers us back to Lats, where our windowside table is well-positioned to trace an elder’s fluid Tai Chi movements on the grass expanses above the bay. The multi-tiered dining area appears structurally unchanged from its days as the Tinnery, but other profound differences quickly become apparent.

The change in service and style is announced immediately as attentive servers deliver inverted cups that they lift to reveal garlic and sun-dried tomato tapenade that goes great with bread. The food, meanwhile, transcends any comparison to the Tinnery. I entertain the thought of appealing entreé salads, short ribs, slow-braised prime rib, steaks, and chicken pastas. But Tene didn’t grow up on a ranch—he grew up running a fish market on Fisherman’s Wharf.  The admirable ahi, lobster, scallops, swordfish and scampi offferings come in creative solo presentations or seductive combinations but always, according to Tene, through sustainable fishing practices. Suddenly the Pacific’s wonder is as edible as it is visible.

The view of the wine list is just as appealing as that of the ocean, and ideally suited for a seafood feast: over 20 local Chardonnays, 28 wines by the glass and a half bottle list that’s half a league deep. A light, buttery Bernardus Chardonnay looks the part for a pairing with a half pound of peel-and-eat, naughty-fresh Old Bay Seasoning Shrimp ($9.95) and a bowl of the crab chowder ($6.95). The simple decadence of the combination is just right.

As we peel, dip and sip, Alex selects the Potato-Encrusted Halibut over the Crab-Encrusted Swordfish (both $22.95). She finds the halibut tender and contrasted nicely by the crispy hash brownesque crust, smoky red pepper sauce and grilled asparagus; in fact, she’s sure it’s the tastiest dish on the table. It’s understandable: Not many see the Lobster Pot Pie ($22.95) coming.

It’s that good. The puff pastry lid on top of the coconut-sized bowl is as flaky as Hollywood and as light as our moods. It conceals a creamy, robust soup awash with lavish lobster chunks and meaty splinters of portabella mushroom.

I return the following week to tap into the smoothie menu, which doubles as an apt microcosm of the innovation Tene displays throughout his menu. He says he is able to offer range of creative tastes because he isn’t limited by a traditional menu (as his brother Sabu Jr. is at the Fish Hopper) and benefits from his past experience “market-testing” new creations at his other restaurants (Issabella’s and Cabo’s on the wharf).

I go for a Gritty Kitty ($5.95)—fresh coffee, mocha, ice cream and chocolate syrup blended in a tall slender glass. Best part is, the barrista allows me to add Kahlúa at no extra charge and passes the overflow along in a back-up cup. My friend Vincent heads for Strawberry Fields ($5.50)—strawberries, banana, piña colada and grenadine—and adds rum.

The savory crab-stuffed mushrooms make it hard not to schedule a return visit on the spot. But that was before I discover Shake is taking his sixth seafood sense to TV—don’t put down that remote—“to take the fear out of cooking seafood at home.” The first show is set to air on KION in early December.

Then again, there is a Garlic Butter Roasted Crab that I need to try.

LATTITUDES RESTAURANT
631 Ocean View Blvd., Pacific Grove | 658-0880
Open 11am-10pm daily.