Kathy and Rudy Torres have melded authentic Mexican food, a caring staff, and zesty tequila drinks into a one-stop fun destination.

When I think of a restaurant that offers top-notch authentic Mexican cuisine, one of the best margaritas on the Peninsula, an atmosphere with character, plus spirited, hardworking, caring people, Monterey''s El Palomar always comes to mind. If you''ve never experienced this gem, you owe it to yourself to give it a whirl.

El Palomar sits quietly tucked between two other eateries--Great Wall of China on Abrego and Thai Café on Munras. Enter the parking lot opposite Denny''s and you''ll not only find ample parking, you''ll also discover that you made the right decision to indulge yourself.

If you have a hankerin'' to wet your whistle first, stop by El Palomar''s grassy-hut Tiki bar and say hello to Mark (who resembles Tom Selleck) or Jose (who resembles Jose). Both of these gentlemen whip up a superb margarita with the tequila of your choosing (may I suggest Hornitos?). Tequila lovers always will find a few wildly exotic brands here.

While you''re sipping in Tiki heaven, check out the flower painting behind the bar. The flowers are painted on individual glass slides (the ones you put under a microscope) and are joined together to form a true work of art (in my opinion, that is). Wait till possibly the busiest moment in Mark or Jose''s shift and ask him to turn the switch on and off the artwork--and then leave a hefty tip!

If you''re ready to get serious and feast, get a table (the margaritas are just as good in the dining room as in the bar). You won''t be disappointed. For starters the folks attending you will serve up a warm batch of chips and a tasty homemade salsa.

Moving into apps, you''ve got to try the eponymous "El Palomar." This baby has a combo of charbroiled snapper, skirt steak and sautéed prawns, sauces and flavorings to die for, and fresh handmade corn tortillas (you may need a partner to help you devour this order). Too hefty for one, unless you make it your entrée, share this gorgeous plateful of pure joy with your friends. If you''re going to be a wimp and munch on lighter fare, try the pollo rollos (flour tortillas filled with chicken, green onion, bell pepper and carrots and then cut into sushi-style rolls).

If you don''t like those two suggestions, you have about eight more appetizers to choose from (all in the $6-8 range), each made with love by chef Noel, his assistant Luce, and the rest of the El Palomar kitchen commandos. One of the beautiful things about this restaurant is the fact that the kitchen is coed, which adds a true homey touch to the operation.

The Big Kahuna

The operation here starts with the Big Kahuna, Rudy Torres. Back in the day when this El Palomar was still owned by the guy who owns the one in Santa Cruz, it was suffering and struggling. Rudy, then a manager in Santa Cruz, was dispatched to clean up the Monterey branch and turn it around. Apparently he came in kicking butts and taking names and, before long, had the joint hopping. When the owner tired of spreading himself out in two cities, he offered Rudy the opportunity to take it over for real. Rudy and wife Kathy have been at the helm ever since.

Nowadays, Rudy and Kathy have a well-oiled machine running. The place is staffed by such a tight group of loyal employees, with the mainstays being Noel in the back of the house and Sal in the front. Both men radiate a genuine warmth and caring spirit that flows throughout the rest of the staff and bathes customers in a loving light. A few visits there and you are familiar with the talented and caring staff--Rigo, Jesus, Luce, Pancho, Jose, etc. Regulars color the backdrop and fill out the ambiance.

But the food has the leading role here. Seafood specialties and traditional favorites leave diners swiping and wiping at the last tasty morsels on the plate. Many of the meals are served with rice, beans (refried and incredibly flavored) and fresh handmade corn tortillas (you can choose flour tortillas if you prefer, but they''re definitely not as cool).

If you''re in the fish mood, try huachinango guajillo (fresh charbroiled red snapper topped with a cilantro-garlic butter sauce), plato de camarones grandes y huachinango (jumbo prawns and red snapper charbroiled and lightly basted with a red bell pepper-chile butter and served with a ranchera and tomatillo salsa), or barco de camarones (crispy flour tortilla filled with Gulf prawns sautéed in a tomatillo-avocado sauce).

If tomorrow promises a power walk or a full-blown aerobics class, go for the traditional pozole (fresh hominy simmered with tender pieces of pork meat on the bone in a Mexican red gravy and topped with shredded cabbage, tomato-onion salsa and a lemon wedge) or the pollo mole (charbroiled chicken breast topped with a dark, spicy and sweet sauce).

Last, but not least, you can always fall back on the fajitas (your choice of chicken breast, skirt steak, portabella mushroom, prawns or seafood combination with sautéed red and green peppers, green onions and salsa ranchera served on a sizzling platter) or varied combination plates.

There are so many choices at El Palomar and since the food is made with love, you truly can''t go wrong. With the space as big as it is, El Palomar is the perfect place for a company or family bash. Get to know the friendly staff and make this spot a regular stop on your dining rotation.

El Palomar is located at 724 Abrego in Monterey and is open daily for lunch and dinner. For reservations or more info, call 372-1032.