A new Carmel Valley Village restaurant proves that great food doesn't have to empty your bank account.

Dining Review

"If they build it, you will come." Those were my dining partner''s words as he dipped a fork into his inaugural first course at Cafe Rustica, four nights after dream team Paulo Kautz and Sylvia Medina opened the doors of their Carmel Valley eatery. At first bite, his declaration was made and the motion seconded.

Please keep the following in mind: It was a Monday night. We had made no reservation. (Since Kautz & Medina have steadfastly shrugged off an advertising budget, I naively anticipated a soft opening: Wrong.) There was, at that juncture of the road, no Cafe Rustica signage to point the way. It''s located in the site of the former Village Pizzeria, but no matter. The vibrantly warm, rustic interior bears no resemblance to the former establishment. But the sign is up now, and the place looks like a repeat performance of the duo''s wildly successful launch of the original Taste Cafe in Pacific Grove almost 10 years ago.

Only different. And maybe even better. If there is one single distinguishing characteristic that describes the kind of talent on display here, it''s integrity. Integrity that translates to each component on every artfully presented plate and sumptuously articulates in flavor that''s turned on full-bore. Integrity that radiates from each thoughtfully considered architectural appointment. From the sand-blasted, rough wood-beamed ceilings to oversize French cotton paisley place mats, nothing is overlooked. After six months of hard-time labor, almost nothing original remains except the river rock walls. All of it is Paulo''s handiwork, including the wavy, serpentine cobblestone patio that those who love sun-drenched Carmel Valley afternoons may now enjoy.

What''s to eat? This is a seriously fun menu. Factor in the seriously low prices, and you''re in for a real treat. I first laid into a bowl of creamy three-mushroom soup ($3.75), paired with a bottle of Joseph Phelps Cabernet Sauvignon, and didn''t look up until the bowl was scraped clean. I may also be credited with raiding my companion''s tossed vegetable salad ($7.25), big enough to enjoy as an entree and chock full of grilled carrots, eggplant and zucchini as well as corn, mushrooms, blue cheese, raisins, peanuts and kalamata olives with creamy balsamic dressing. My carefully recorded notation reads "YUM!"

Next, from a selection of more than a half dozen "Suppers," I chose the Manque Choux, pronounced "Mock Shoe." A Louisiana specialty, the behemoth bowl boasted braised, country-range chicken and Italian fennel sausage, cassoulet-style with navy beans and corn. Outrageous for $10.75, and what I couldn''t finish by midnight became a fait accomplis. To appease me, my trusty companion selflessly yielded his onion-y mashed potatoes to my cause, along with a tiny nibble of his grilled, super-fresh salmon fillet, ($14.50), double-yum. The couple behind us raved over the flammekueche, one of a selection of eight 11-inch wood-fired pizzas, this one with prosciutto, onions and creme fraiche, for $8.50. And their''s was not the only "Bravo!" directed at the chefs. Spontaneous bursts of applause erupted all evening.

Depite a daunting new computer system and the lack of a dessert menu (a work in progress--gelato for the moment), service was cheerful, skilled and swift. On top of all that, there''s the theater, too. Like admiring the precision choreography of a pair who knows each other''s every move, Sylvia and Paulo are back on the dance floor.