Parsonage’s 2015 vintage is an unabashed, rollicking wine ready for a good time.

Hedonistic – that’s how winemaker Bill Parsons describes his 2015 Parsonage “Rocco” Syrah. Not that the wine is self-indulgent, although it does seem hell-bent in pursuit of a good time, spilling bushels of ripe blackberries and blueberries from the glass.

The revelry begins with a swirl. Fresh aromas spring from the glass, tromping over the grumbles of pepper and licorice. The party continues unabated on the palate, as dense dark berries mingle with a flirtatious impression of fresh plum. What develops on the fringes – raspy pepper, dry clove, bittersweet chocolate and toasted tobacco – are too faint at first to slow things down. It’s only on the finish that the wine’s demeanor changes, developing a more stolid, earthy character and a richer berry compote aspect that stills some of its liveliness.

Parsons gives credit almost solely to the vineyard – a small patch on a rocky slope hit with bright sun that torments the vines. “The intensity, the complexity – it’s been obvious that was the best fruit on the property,” he says. In this case, terroir gets the party started.

PARSONAGE 19 E. Carmel Valley Road, Carmel Valley. 659-7322, parsonagewine.com