La Merienda is a big-time small party that celebrates the founding of Monterey.

Before one gets overexcited, the 94th La Merienda in downtown Monterey is sold out. Given the space, only a limited number of tickets are made available each year.

But that should not stop anyone from exploring the history of this annual gathering that can be traced to the 18th century.

Since 1929, it has been organized by the Monterey History and Art Association as Monterey’s birthday – 255 this year. The 200-attendee party takes place in the Memory Garden, a walled garden off Custom House Plaza. Traditionally, it presented local young women to the community, not unlike a debutante ball.

The word “merienda” refers to a small meal, either between lunch and dinner or between breakfast and lunch, popular in various cultures. It is known as goûter in France, teatime in the U.K. and merienda in Spain and Portugal.

Naturally, La Merienda in Monterey is everything but a small in-between meal. From afar, it looks like a wedding celebration, and that’s due to the rose-adorned multi-layered cake sponsored by the Del Piero family, descendants of a Monterey pioneer, Honore Escolle. The cake will be cut with the historic sword of Colonel Roger Fitch, who was the first president of the Monterey History and Art Association. The festivities include mariachi musicians, folklórico dancers and a “Californio” party. Colonial-style Spanish is the recommended attire.

Eric Sand, vice chair of the MHAA board, is celebrating La Merienda for the 41st time.

“My family goes back in Monterey’s history to 1848, and that’s what I feel when I’m there,” he says. “I celebrate the spirit of the people that helped create Monterey.” One of Sand’s ancestors, Joel Walker, signed the California Constitution. His great-grandfather, Benjamin Franklin Wright, helped develop Franklin Street in Monterey – hence the name. Seaside’s Hilby Avenue is named after his other great-grandfather, Martin Francis Hilby.

Each year, a woman who contributes to the community is awarded the Laura Bright Powers award. Powers was the curator of the Custom House and First Theatre and an ardent student of California history. This year the award will be presented to Paula Trotter of Trotter Galleries.

94th LA MERIENDA will be held 11:15am-3pm on Saturday, June 7. Memory Garden off of the Custom House Plaza, Monterey. $125; $100/MHAA members; sold out. 659-7788, montereyhistory.org.