With Oktoberfest at hand, The Meatery adds some German flavor to its sausage lineup.

By some counts there are around 1,200 different sausages made in Germany, including more than 40 regional variations of bratwurst. And some are governed by culinary etiquette, or even international law.

For example, snacking on weißwurst after lunch betrays a certain lack of manners. To prepare Thüringer rostbratwurst, at least half of the ingredients used must come from the region. Similar regulations apply to rostbratwurst from Nuremberg.

But in Seaside there are no such limitations, which allows Chef Todd Fisher some latitude. “It’s comfortable for me to do any style of sausage,” he observes. “If I was in Bavaria, I’d do that style. We’re the melting pot.”

Fisher and his crew at The Meatery have made three German-style sausages for this weekend’s Oktoberfest celebration on the lawn of Colton Hall in Monterey (see Hot Picks, p.24). The bratwurst is a staple, coarse and hearty, with a notion of coriander and a looming sensation of pine. Knackwurst is a smoother grind and develops an earthy spice and mineralic tone that lingers on the palate.

“The knackwurst was so popular last year that it was a no-brainer [for the festival],” the chef says.

Fisher routinely readies German and Austrian-style sausages for The Meatery’s customers come Oktoberfest season. He has also teamed with Alvarado Street Brewery, using brewmaster J.C. Hill’s Mai Tai IPA in the bratwurst. Last year Hill spent months in Germany studying traditional brewing techniques. But he also picked up on the country’s other obsession.

“He had seen so many sausages,” Fisher says, adding that Hill became interested in pairing wursts and beer. “I went to Google and typed in ‘top 20 German sausages.’ Thüringer was like number three.”

However, a recipe he found came with a warning more powerful than the European Union’s Protected Geographical Indication status. Long and thin, requiring a fine mince and a deft touch to balance garlic, cumin, mace, marjoram and other additions, it’s a difficult sausage to master. When Fisher read that he said, “That’s it, I’m trying it.”

That was last year. For the expanded Oktoberfest – the first time Alvarado Street has taken it beyond brewpub boundaries – Fisher prepared käsekrainer, a type stuffed with Emmentaler cheese. It’s creamy, with a waft of smoke and dry herbs and a satisfying snap.

Each – the bratwurst, knackwurst and käsekrainer – is an example of refined technique. The ingredients enhance or even embolden the meat, whether pork, beef or veal, which is why Fisher is quick to dismiss the well-known bit of advice about sausages.

“You do want to know how it’s made,” he insists.

Fisher uses meat from ethically-raised animals. Examples in the case at The Meatery each come with a description. A spicy Italian-style sausage, for example, includes ground pork, Calabrian chili powder and sun-dried tomatoes. A French-style sausage has white wine and garlic. It is even said that one of the first mentions of the product was a decree from government officials in Nuremberg, Germany in 1313 requiring butchers to use only high-quality pork loin to make sausages.

Fisher and his team are preparing more German foods for the Oktoberfest event, including a giant pretzel – “People say, ‘yeah – big,’” he says; “No, I mean giant” – and apple strudel. But the sausages have the chef excited, especially the käsekrainer.

“It’s awesome,” Fisher says with a grin. “People love sausage with cheese. We have five sausages with cheese right now.”

The format allows chefs to play, after all. German, Italian or English bangers; prepared with truffles and cognac or fermented black garlic and miso. The Meatery’s blood sausage is Austrian-style, with apples and warm spices.

Like the variations in Germany, it can be overwhelming.

“We have 30 flavors. We’re competing with our neighbors, Baskin-Robbins,” Fisher notes before counting. “We have 31 – and the knackwurst and käsekrainer aren’t in there yet. We beat those guys.”

THE MEATERY, 1534 Fremont Blvd., Seaside. 656-8810, themeateryseaside.com.