While many prefer the fried version, there is no standing on tradition when it comes to fish tacos.

As controversies go, the spat over fish tacos is rather friendly.

Fried or grilled? “There are no rules,” says Alan Leon of Barba Azul through an interpreter.

As if to prove his point – or perhaps in a nod to bipartisanship – the Seaside restaurant serves both styles. When it comes to popularity, however, it becomes clear that the matter is rather one sided.

At Barba Azul, the Baja taco – beer-battered and fried – is easily the better selling item. And in San Diego, which called dibs on fish tacos decades ago, a dip in hot oil is considered traditional. In fact, Pax Culinaria places the grilled version in an entirely different food group.

“We used to grill it, but people didn’t like it,” observes David Rodas, owner of Mission 19 Taqueria in Monterey. “You don’t have the crunch.”

Although many recipes call for beer batter, at Mission 19 they use an egg batter, shaking off all but a thin glaze before pan-frying in olive oil. It’s a method that puts an emphasis on the fish itself, the mild flavor of which can be lost under heavier coating or more enthusiastic seasoning.

But there is a case for beer batter. Alvarado Street Brewery in Monterey offers fish in a taco, but it would stand apart in any presentation – fish and chips, for instance. The crust is calm and malty, with traces of salinity. It crackles over fish that is firm, lean and flaky, with a faint creaminess that suits the crust.

Keeping in mind the timid nature of white fish, the sauce is fresh and uplifting, providing a bright backdrop. The crunch is a welcome contrast.

While the dish is associated with San Diego – many people credit restaurateur Ralph Rubio, who brought the fish taco north in 1983 – it can be traced to the Baja region of Mexico. At least that’s where food writers pin the modern version.

According to those who have followed the historical trail, fish tacos as we know them are a relatively recent creation, dating only to the 1950s. It is said that Japanese immigrants to Baja introduced the idea – an assumption based on similarities to tempura – and residents welcomed the collision of Japanese technique and Mexican ingredients.

Some suggest that Baja was primed for such fusion. Besides the fact that most of the peninsula is within easy reach of fresh seafood, an NPR exploration on the subject noted that the region’s “physical separation from mainland Mexico has allowed Baja cuisine to evolve independently.”

But its semi-isolation could not keep the fish taco from becoming a hit just about everywhere. The cities of Ensenada and San Felipe both lay claim to the first version, with sources in Ensenada adamant that a vendor in that city introduced the tacos and that the angelito (the fish) were tossed on the grill – which is perhaps the only remaining point of contention in the fish taco debate.

Or is it? At Alvarado Street’s Carmel location, the menu features grilled halibut topped by cabbage, pico de gallo and avocado in place of a fried option. Grilled is the way the team at Seaside’s Taqueria Zarape chose to go, as well. Taqueria Del Mar in Monterey joins the no-fry club, too, limiting the selection to grilled fish – as well as grilled squid, shrimp, scallops and crab. (The kitchen also breaks the rules by adding cheese to seafood.)

The rising popularity of grilled fish in tacos is in part due to the turn toward healthier foods. It is also easier for home cooks to pop fish into the oven.

That grilled, blackened, broiled or even ceviche tacos are making more than a dent in Baja-style dominance is evident in the wavering of a San Diego chain. On its website, City Tacos promised to settle the grilled versus fried matter. Instead, the post settles on a limp, “We recommend trying both styles and making your own decision.”

Still, critics may be on the right track. Judging by the grilled dish at Barba Azul, it is a different experience.

The otherwise mild fish takes on a smoky haze that works well with a topping of grilled onions. Scoring from the grill becomes a steady presence that lingers on the palate, informing the next bite. As for the missing crunch, the pillow avocado comes to the rescue, by contrast allowing the firm, flaky texture to stand out.

So it’s a contest where diners win, either way. As Rodas says, despite the head start afforded the original Baja-style fried fish taco, “It’s a matter of taste.”