No Change

Kelly Shatto, Carl Alasko and Stefen Shatto in the Il Vecchio dining room. Chef Shatto helped open the restaurant and now takes over as co-owner with his mother.

Carl Alasko and Stefen Shatto are throwing numbers from their shared memory, but nothing adds up.

Shatto – the young chef who opened Il Vecchio with owner Alasko – figures he has been away from the Pacific Grove favorite for 12 years. More like 10, the elder insists. Alasko checks his math against a figure scratched on a post by the entrance to the restaurant’s dining room. Il Vecchio opened 13 years ago. Shatto helmed the kitchen for the first three-and-a-half of those.

“Oh, yeah,” the chef says, shaking his head with a wry smile to excuse the miscalculation. “It’s 2024.”

Time flies in professional kitchens, especially as a chef moves from place to place, gaining new experiences. But one thing is evident. You can go home again.

After a decade away from Il Vecchio and the menu he crafted with Alasko, Shatto has returned as chef and new owner of the venerable Italian spot. Alongside Shatto as co-owner is his mother, Kelly, an accomplished businesswoman and entrepreneur. The Shattos officially take over the restaurant on Saturday, June 1. And it’s a unique transition – a chef stepping into a restaurant with a menu he helped to forge and does not intend to change.

“That’s what I love about the place,” he says. “It has stayed the same.”

Alasko’s willingness to step away from the restaurant is another matter of hemming and hawing. “It was his idea,” Shatto says, nodding toward the outgoing owner – who for his part shows a cagey smile.

In January, Stefen and Kelly had dinner at the restaurant and a conversation ensued. After 13 years, Alasko was satisfied with the success of Il Vecchio and felt no great need for more.

“He’s still going to spy on us,” Shatto says with a glance toward Alasko, who grins in response. “He still wants to paint the outside.”

“I do?” This time Alasko feigns knowledge of this agreement.

What they shared in common – what made the comfortable dining space a destination – is an understanding of the Old World neighborhood trattoria, operated by a family and serving a local community. It’s a vital impression Alasko carries from his years living in Rome in the 1960s and ’70s. Shatto picked it up as an apprentice in the city, sent there by his new boss after Il Vecchio opened. There’s an authenticity, not simply in the recipes passed down through generations, but in the conversations spilling across the tables.

“When you’re done, there’s a sense of satisfaction,” Alasko observes.

There’s no need for a chef-driven menu, no need for individual flair. The flaw in many Italian restaurants, he adds, is that they tend to drift toward American expectations, where sauces drench the plate and flavors resound across the palate.

“There is no secret ingredient,” Shatto says. “All the pastas – the sauce should not fall off the noodle.”

“We’re definitely not creative,” Alasko adds, pointing to an imagined shelf of weathered Italian cookbooks.

The “no need to change that” is implied. But the ethic of plain, honest authenticity worked from the start. Il Vecchio earned accolades from the beginning and the dining room continues to fill up night after night, year after year.

Shatto was 21 when he originally took on kitchen duties at the restaurant. Alasko was also a newcomer to the service industry.

“We did not know what we were doing,” the latter admits. “It’s one thing to make dinner for a family, it’s another to make it for 100 people.”

“It was 300 people,” Shatto interjects. They eventually settle on 150 a night during the week, 300 on weekends, and agree on the lines out the door.

“We were new and the food was pretty good,” Alasko points out. “People recognize what authentic flavor is.”

That’s why Shatto has no intention on upsetting a menu he helped take shape. There are plans to up the cocktail game, create an online ordering platform and perhaps add catering, but that’s it.

“I love every dish that’s on the menu,” Shatto says.

A Hello-Goodbye Party takes place Saturday, June 1 starting at 6:30pm. Il Vecchio is at 110 Central Ave., Pacific Grove. 324-4282, ilvecchiorestaurant.com.

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