Pork belly was a fine dining rarity then a culinary fad. Now it has become a relative staple.

That certain items become fashionable is just a matter of fact in the restaurant world. Indeed, chefs are resigned to the fact that dishes will have to be spiked with sriracha, desserts amped with matcha – or whatever is the food of the moment.

Mike Fischetti of The Pocket in Carmel acknowledges this in a matter-of-fact tone. “Every year there’s a new ingredient that comes around that people fixate on,” he says.

Yet these fads play out differently. For many, the fall is long and hard. Tiki bars, tutti frutti ice cream and duck a l’orange are faded memories. Others persist, despite evident public malaise (think pumpkin spice). There are, however, those with staying power.

“People love the pork belly here,” observes Kurt Boucher, chef of the Monterey destination Montrio. “It became trendy then stuck around.”

Boucher dresses Montrio’s pork belly appetizer with almond butter, spiced nuts and jalapeño honey, with pickled apple and rice wine vinaigrette to ease the richness. At The Pocket, Fischetti has offered different presentations, most recently marinated with soy, Thai chiles and “tons of ginger,” among other ingredients.

In both cases, the approach is slow and low – curing for up to a day, roasting for hours at around 200 degrees. But it also highlights pork belly’s versatility. Jerry Regester, chef at Spotted Duck in Pacific Grove, tops his burger with pork belly. At Carmel’s Rio Grill, Luis Osorio’s team cures, smokes and bakes the meat over three days before applying a spicy candied glaze.

The cut can be braised, grilled, deep fried or treated to preparations such as sous vide or confit, as well. For a brittle veneer, Boucher finishes his pork belly in the deep fryer, for no more than a minute. Another trick, offered by Fischetti, is to pour hot oil over the skin after pulling it from the oven.

Either way, the point is for a quick fry. “We don’t want to overcook it,” Boucher points out. “It’s nice and juicy.”