People tell us how to eat.
You all know the patter: Kombucha is a must, white sugar a hard no, same with iodized salt – although sea salt or crystals mined from the Himalayas are fine. Meanwhile gut health has become a primary concern and, of course, there are always the plant-based zealots.
Americans have long been subject to the tug of competing diet fads. But Andrew Renard and Michelle Carter offer some hope.
“There is a way out,” Renard says. “And it’s not new.”
Renard and Carter are a husband-and-wife team who operate Kitchen Table Cultures, selling their product at area farmers markets. Their offerings are trending – bone broth, kvass and shrubs, among other items. But they are also throwbacks to a time when people used every scrap and also preserved goods for storage.
Given the reproachful tone of many food health disciples, a conversation with Renard and Carter is refreshing. They use phrases such as “healthy fat,” referring to tallow as a benefit for the heart, and bemoan the environmental damage of monocrop farming, defending the role of cattle.
“We offer an alternative to greenwashing,” Renard says, noting that cracks in the plant-based theology are starting to appear. Healthy and ethical dining are complex problems. Besides, few can realistically shake the hold of processed food, arguably the cornerstone of the standard American diet.
“There are traditional ways of eating,” Renard points out.
“Yet the city is calling,” Carter adds with a touch of sarcasm. “There’s this wonderful thing called fast food. There is the disconnect.”
The pair celebrate the health benefits of bone broth and fermented foods, certainly. They’ve adopted a tagline – “Make yourself harder to kill” – for Kitchen Table Cultures. But the underlying idea is to take whatever steps are possible away from a reliance on industrial foods, to think small, to return to some traditional ways.
Carter recalls cringing as her father finished a plate, gristle and all. Many people still shy away from organ meats.
“It’s a shift in perspective,” she says. Meat is not something to avoid; fat is flavor; there is even a place for carbs; “You have to change your mindset.”
Renard and Carter visit local ranches, get to know the farmers and check out their livestock. There is a color-coded mark on each jar of broth that denotes the specific ranch.
“Once you learn where your food comes from, you feel empowered,” Carter explains.
“We’re not selling just food,” says Renard, with Carter adding the kicker: “We’re selling a lifestyle.”
Bone broth got things started from their Marina home. It’s essentially the same as stock, only boiled for a longer period – up to two days – often without the root vegetables and aromatics. The beef version prepared by Renard and Carter is like sipping prime steak.
Broth has been used for centuries as a base for soups, gravies and other recipes. And it is a simple process to get from bones to liquid flavor. Renard and Carter seek out joint bones, the more bits clinging to them the better. For chicken broth, they pile feet into the water – which is spring water, high in alkaline. Finally, they add a dose of raw apple cider vinegar.
“Having an acid helps to break it down and releases the nutrients,” Renard says.
Throughout those same centuries, bone broth has been considered a restorative drink. Advocates today speak of immune system benefits, as well as better skin and a boost in energy, among other improvements – similar to claims made hundreds of years ago. Although he prepares sauerkraut – “It’s good, and it’s loaded with vitamin C” – and other preserved foods, Renard calls bone broth the company’s foundation. “There’s nothing we make that’s more healing,” he says.
There are more products on the way. The plan is to work toward a storefront location eventually, but for now the couple rotates between the farmers markets in Pacific Grove (Mondays), Carmel (Thursdays) and Monterey (Fridays).
“It’s just the two of us,” Renard points out. “We’re both excited and exhausted. But we’re tapping into something traditional. Stay tuned.”