It’s not The Big Easy, but there are city favorites to be found in Monterey County.

Wayne Zhu admits that the concept is a bit puzzling.

“People are surprised,” he says. “They’ve never seen the combination.”

Zhu is the chef and owner of Juicy Crab in Seaside. The name, obviously, is not what causes passersby to pause, it’s the subhead: Cajun Seafood & Chinese Food, an unusual juxtaposition, but one that he says works nicely.

The lunchtime crowd tends to order mongolian beef, fried rice, crispy noodles or other Chinese standards. In the evening and on weekends, however, the tables are covered in butcher’s paper in preparation for seafood boils.

“People really love it,” Zhu says.

It’s not uncommon to find random dishes from the Louisiana Delta on restaurant menus around Monterey County. Seaside Seafood & Market in Seaside, for example, doles out gumbo, as well as the blackened fish that became a 1980s craze thanks to famed New Orleans chef Paul Prudhomme. But the kitchens emphasizing Cajun and Creole fare are not fully committed.

There is a reason for that, explains Valentina Rapisarda of Bon Ton L’Roy’s Lighthouse Smokehouse in Monterey. While the name of the popular spot on Lighthouse Avenue suggests delta blues, its offerings range from Southern-style barbecue to Eastern European standards – Rapisarda is from St. Petersburg, Russia – as well as red beans and rice.

“You don’t like barbecue, you have other choices,” she points out.

Bon Ton L’Roy’s has become noted for both its borscht and étouffée. The former dwells on the sweet earthiness of beets, with pops of fresh herbs and a light, friendly tang. But Rapisarda is equally deft with Cajun-style étouffée, rustic and comfortable, with a steady flicker of heat and hints from the nutty roux and gentle brininess of shellfish.

“If you’re a chef, you like to cook,” she says.

Before settling down on Lighthouse, Rapisarda owned a deli at the Coast Guard Pier. Its diverse customer base taught her the value of a far-reaching menu. However, the pier was also a grab-and-go crowd.

“What worked there didn’t work here,” she notes. Some of the items transferred easily, but many deli favorites did not attract attention. “We like New Orleans; everybody likes New Orleans,” Rapisarda adds. “No one in Monterey sells it. We thought it would be a good addition.”

Dishes with ties to the city are already a fusion of international flavors. Both Cajun and Creole cooking drew influence from French and Spanish cuisine, as well as those of West Africa and indigenous populations.

So the menu at Bon Ton L’Roy’s spans piroshki and stroganoff, chili and pulled pork, jambalaya and muffuletta.

Before the pandemic, Zhu’s restaurant – then known as Lucky Bamboo – was strictly Chinese. During the downtime, with more people turning to outside gatherings, he took up Cajun flavors and seafood boils.

“I learned by myself,” he says. Zhu studied recipes and even watched YouTube videos – although the latter proved frustrating. Over and over, there would be some inflection missing from the flavors, he points out, “because they never tell you the secret [ingredient].” When he unlocked the recipes, however, the crawfish and shrimp drew praise.

“Friends said, ‘Do a Chinese and Cajun combination,’” he recalls. “ I thought, ‘That’s a good idea.’”

A boil is more party than comfort, with cobs of corn, sausage and seafood spilling across a picnic table. The shrimp is head-on and a meal becomes a joyous mess – and that’s where Juicy Crab lands when it comes to its Cajun side.

Yet scanning the menu at Bon Ton L’Roy’s, it becomes evident why putting plates associated with New Orleans alongside those from distinctly different cuisines works so easily. Dishes like red beans and rice offer humble, satisfying comfort. The same could be said of stuffed cabbage, a tri-tip sandwich or General Tso’s chicken, for that matter.

So it is indeed a good idea.

BON TON L’ROY’S LIGHTHOUSE SMOKEHOUSE, 794 Lighthouse Ave., Monterey. 375-6958.

JUICY CRAB CAJUN SEAFOOD & CHINESE FOOD, 1784 Fremont Blvd., Seaside. 899-5115, juicycrabcajunseafood.com.