With a new vintage, Domaine Messier’s old and new approach is coming together.

When Luc Messier says his wines are influenced by Old World Burgundy tradition, he means it literally and figuratively.

He launched Domaine Messier with the idea of preparing some Pinot Noir with New World verve, leaning on Greg and Chris Vita’s deep understanding of Monterey County’s soils and climate. But he also set aside other barrels for the winemaking guidance of tienne Grivot of Domaine Jean Grivot, one of Burgundy’s finest.

After three vintages, the effect of this approach is interesting. For instance, the 2022 Cuvée Nouveau Monde (New World) is lively, fruity and floral with a spicy cranberry bite. The Cuvée Sagittaire (Old World) of the same vintage offers deeper, richer tones and tannic structure. Skip ahead to 2024 and it’s clear that the Vitas are finding much from each style and dialing both in.

While the Old World version remains more opulent, with dense fruit and notions of well-worn leather on the nose, hints of zest bring a sensation of spice to the genteel profile. The New World Pinot is still fresh and buoyant, but there are impressions of gravity – berries still on the bush, hints of must and a note of minerality, with a longer finish.

Yes, part of this is down to the growing season. It was cooler on the mountaintop overlooking Carmel Valley in 2024. But the two worlds are closer to each other, comparatively, than in 2022. And coming together is a good thing.

Atelier Domaine Messier, Dolores between Ocean and 7th, Carmel. domainemessier.com.