Gewürtztraminer is at or near the top of the list of under-appreciated varietals, which is curious given that it’s a fun word to attempt after a few – and that even examples at modest price points are pleasant wines.
The 2022 Gewürtztraminer from Hive and Honey presents a compelling bouquet of lychee and red rose petals, the latter struck by midday sun. These are signature aromas of the varietal, and the welcome is soft and tropical, but with a little spicy promise. A sip brings fruit in several forms. There are bright impressions of apricot and the bite of grapefruit. More exotic tropical notions swirl in, such as papaya and guava, with its hint of earthiness. All around is fresh and juicy pineapple. And within this are charming florals and the spicy rasp of ginger. Much of this is subtle, drifting under the fruits.
This is not a bone-dry treatment of the varietal; there is some sweetness to it. But the residual sugars lend a richer body. A sip is like a blanket, comfortable and easy to enjoy. The winemakers fermented and rested the wine in stainless steel to brighten the sensation of fruit. Even though moderately sweet, it remains a fresh and balanced wine, something easy to enjoy without having to toss aside pretension. Gewürtztraminer is hardly a simple wine. It has a lot to offer.
Hive and Honey is a private Monterey County label produced through Scheid Vineyards. They bottle just two varietals, the Gewürtztraminer and a Riesling.
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