The brunch Bloody Mary bar at Estéban gives guests a chance to make it their way.

There are Bloody Marys – vodka, a mix, perhaps a dash of Worcestershire sauce, drop in a celery stalk and brunch is served. But the mix itself, as well as the cocktail, is open to interpretation. It can be spiced up or loaded until teetering with vegetables, meats, even tacos or dumplings.

Into this almost limitless world comes the Bloody Mary Bar, a feature of weekend brunch at Estéban Restaurant in Monterey. Guests receive a checklist where they can select the base spirit – mezcal, tequila or the more traditional vodka (Estéban’s resident spiritsmith Anthony Vitacca partnered with craft distillery Midtown for regular and flavored versions). Wish to add a protein? Tick off options like meatball, chorizo or anchovies. Finally there is a choice of rim salts.

A few minutes later, a glass with ice and a salted rim arrives, along with a plate of skewered meat or seafood and a second vessel with a few ounces of alcohol. The rest is up to the guest.

The bar itself is like a carnival midway of cocktail additions on one table. Taps can pour classic Bloody Mary mix, clamato or carrot juice – or some of each. There are pickled vegetables. And jars brimming with chiles, olives, horseradish and such, rows of hot sauce and bitters, along with shakers of dill, celery seed and other herbs and spices. While the possibilities are technically not endless, perusing the bar can take some time. But the end result is what each guest wants, brunch in a tall glass, and a conversation started.

ESTÉBAN RESTAURANT, 700 Munras Ave., Casa Munras Hotel, Monterey. 375-0176, hotelcasamunras.com.