Before martinis became playthings, dolled up with espresso, Dubai chocolate and the like, the cocktail spoke of elegance. The stemware, the shimmering pool of gin – this was the choice for the finest of dining.
That tradition is not lost on the team at Seventh & Dolores. The 7D Bespoke Martini is an expression of refinement and dignity. The cocktail is presented with a skewer of grilled steak slices and a blini topped with caviar on the side, all on a silver platter. It becomes an experience – husky yet delicate beef draping the palate with its juices, the burst of earthy salinity from the caviar, the rich creaminess of bleu cheese stuffed in an olive, blanketing its inviting funk.
Yet the accoutrements cannot distract from the fact that this is one fine martini. With Nolet’s gin and vermouth, the sensation is of soft herbs resting in the shade of pine trees. Olive oil floated on top provides a grassy bite that complements the drink nicely, as well as lending an opulence to each sip. Dirty martinis are even more coarse by comparison.
This is a well-considered presentation throughout – although there is a caveat. The Bespoke Martini requires more than a quick shake with ice. On busy evenings, when bartenders have no minutes to spare, it may be pulled from the menu. But that’s no matter. The restaurant’s espresso martini is good, as well.
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