Cru Winery puts Chardonnay from the same vineyard on two distinct paths.

To oak or not to oak, that is the question.

Well, it’s not always the most pertinent matter. But when it comes to Chardonnay, wooden staves can influence the wine one way while stainless steel might take it in a different direction.

Case in point, the 2024 Chardon­nays from Cru Winery – plural, as one was fermented in 100 percent French oak, the other in gleaming metallurgy, with the grapes for both harvested from the same Santa Lucia Highlands vineyard.

The unoaked version is cheerful on the nose, with impressions of peach and green apple frolicking forward. One would anticipate a brisk wine, but a sip reveals a nice body with rounded fruit, with tropical notes and a soft cucumber. Somehow – both in the bouquet and on the palate – one gets hints of an elusive sensation of brioche.

Oak is readily apparent in the other Chardonnay, even before taking a sip. The color is a richer amber and the aromas more genteel, like apple pie with flecks of lemon zest. Citrus emerges on the palate, as well – although silkier, with a trace of vanilla and sliced melon. A tickle of spice follows on the finish, with a drifting thought of toasted bread.

In answer to the eternal question, one could reasonably respond either way. Or we could say to sip the stainless version during the day and save the oaked Chardonnay for the evening. But really, you can’t go wrong.

CRU WINERY, 37500 Foothill Road, Soledad. (800) 946-3039, cruwinery.com.