Proof It

“Cask strength” is a frightening phrase, at least for some people. It’s an expression of potency, of alcohol broiling the palate.

But Pantera de Oro Extra Añejo tequila, released at cask strength – 53-percent alcohol – can win over the fearful. It’s an inviting spirit, even to the eyes. Three years in oak has given the tequila a rich, dark amber hue. From the glass, aromas of peanut brittle, toasted coconut and coffee sweetened with honey beckon.

This is not a high-proof spirit to be wary of, but one to sip and appreciate. Caramel pricked by cinnamon gilds the palate. Hints of toasted hazelnut and scored wood tip between refined and rugged. There are settled impressions of coffee and vanilla, with just a fringe of brighter agave. It’s as if one has eased into a comfortable chair with a glass of cognac.

Yes, there is a simmering presence of alcohol, but it’s a good burn: even tempered and in balance with the opulence of the tequila. Clearly, the decisions first to let it rest in a sun-baked warehouse in Ixtluhuaca de los Membrillos for three long years, then to bottle the spirit undiluted were wise ones.

It’s the first release of Pantera de Oro to California, and it can be a bit difficult to track down. Just 20,000 bottles were distributed. However, Costco in Salinas is one of the recipients. If you chance upon a bottle – the manufacturer’s recommended price is over $100 – please sip it neat.

Read more at panteradeorotequila.com

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