Blanc Slate

Wine is often described as an expression of the growing season for a particular grape and vineyard. But it can also tell of incidents along the way.

For their 2025 Sauvignon Blanc, the folks at Bernardus decided to harvest multiple times, starting before the clusters reached peak ripeness, with a goal of layering in notes from different stages of the season. So just as a tap on a cymbal causes sound to rise, fall and even echo, the wine yields subtleties.

The notion of grapefruit is prominent on the nose, but there is an earthy character lurking underneath. Yet the fresh tingle of whole ripe limes emerges, leaving bright expectations. And this is a fresh, bursting Sauvignon Blanc – wedges of grapefruit bulging with juice, peaches fallen from the tree, an inviting tropical allure, brisk citrus. There is an abundance of fruit traipsing across the palate, with only a whisper of something more grounded to suggest an earthly origin.

Winemaker Jim McCabe fermented the wine – a Musque clone grown in Arroyo Seco – in stainless steel to preserve its lively nature. But he also introduced neutral French oak uprights to bring more depth.

Sauvignon Blanc is not a varietal readily associated with Monterey County, where Pinot Noir and Chardonnay are more common. Bernardus’ wine suggest that this is unfortunate. They have produced a fun Sauvignon Blanc that also has a story to tell.

BERNARDUS WINERY TASTING ROOM, 5 W. Carmel Valley Road, Carmel Valley. (831) 298-8021, bernardus.com.

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