Bargetto’s Tuxedo Red is an interesting wine for a number of reasons.

Nine. You read that right—nine.

That’s the number of varietals blended to produce Bargetto Winery’s 2023 Tuxedo Red, which makes no sense until you learn that Tuxedo was the name of the vineyard’s cat. Despite the presence of such grapes as Dolcetto, Nebbiolo and Refosco, as well as the more prominent  Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir and Malbec, a swirl of the glass suggests Zinfandel—blackberries, plum and a gentle impression of clove.

The varietal makes up 51 percent of the blend and yields a deep, juicy sensation on the palate. Very quickly, however, Tuxedo Red begins to lead your mind into an enjoyable labyrinth. Notions of blueberry and black cherry, giving the wine a rich and full-bodied demeanor. There are undercurrents of peppery spice and dried herbs, along with vague hints of chocolate and cedar. Although strapping tannins sap some of the fruits mid-palate, the wine remains fruit-forward and easygoing throughout. There is clearly much more than Zinfandel going on.

For Bargetto’s 2023 edition, Zinfandel, Petite Sirah and Merlot combine for 91 percent of the mix. Other grapes contribute anywhere from 6 percent to fractions of a percent. What truly makes it interesting is that the winemakers keep the blend in a unique balance—just contemplative enough to share with friends who are particular, yet casual enough to please the indifferent guest. 

At $22 a bottle, such get-togethers can be frequent. 

Bargetto Winery, 700 Cannery Row, Monterey. (831) 373-4053, bargetto.com.