Alvarado Street’s GNX has the triple IPA muscle of Buick’s legendary beast.

Buick’s 1987 send-off for the Regal Grand National was the monster in black known as the GNX, a 300-horsepower, turbocharged brute. Despite its boxy swagger, it is highly desired by collectors (RM Sotheby’s has one in its Car Week auction lineup).

Its tribute in beer form at Alvarado Street Brewery is also a force. GNX is a West Coast Triple IPA packing hops and horsepower – 10-percent alcohol, enough so that bartenders restrain it to an 8-ounce pour. But even this can’t contain the beer’s exuberance. Aromas of citrus and tropical fruit leap from the glass, the result of a hop mix that includes citra and mosaic.

As a result, bold notions of orange, mango and grapefruit race over the palate when sipped. But there are nuances in the turbulent wake – floral notes, a hint of banana bread, tingling spice, soft impressions of dry herbs and an earthy undertone that build into the sharp, resinous finish.

GNX is a triple IPA, so this pine forest sensation contends with the fruit and finds balance. Almost immediately, you are drinking a smooth ale with a lot of character, its sinister alcohol zeal concealed under a wealth of flavor. From that first expressive burst of fruit and pine, it becomes and easy drinker (though definitely not a session beer).

The 1987 GNX was a $30,000 car – a hefty price tag for a Buick of its day. GNX at Alvarado Street is much easier on the credit, at $8.

Alvarado Street Brewery, 426 Alvarado St., Monterey, 655-2337; Ocean and Mission, Carmel, 293-8621; 301 Main St., Salinas, 356-0219; asb.beer.