Alejandro’s take on the classic old fashioned shows the value of methods new and old.

Bartenders regularly transform classic cocktails through a fat wash. Brown butter, bacon fat, nut oils and the like both develop flavors and lend heft.

The process might lapse into mixology routine, something done merely because it is expected. On the other hand, there is the birria old fashioned at Alejandro’s to remind us there is a purpose to the art. It starts with Mexican Abasolo whiskey, distilled from heirloom Cacahuazintle corn that has gone through nixtamalization—another process, but thousands of years older than fat-washing cocktails, of course. It imparts a distinct depth to the spirit, with mellow tones of hearth-roasted grain that ease into the profound yet homey note from the braised fat. Other dabs of mixology—pineapple gomme stands in for simple syrup—form light and shadow.

A soft citrus note beckons the palate, but the brushstrokes become more enigmatic—moody and vivid. The fruits develop the bittersweet depth of orange peel. Impressions of tea leaves are enveloped by a light honey. Smoke traces over gentle vanilla. But all the while, an earthy richness drapes over the palate, tingling with languorous spice.

This is enigmatic beauty, a Van Gogh or Keith Haring. Although fat washing is not by itself difficult, the time consumed through braising by the kitchen and nixtamalization by the distiller shows in the glass.

And then, of course, it is gone. The birria old fashioned is also easy to enjoy. 

Alejandro’s, 474 Alvarado St., Monterey. (831) 717-4781, alejandros.co.