Bistro Moulin owner Federico Rusciano turned the wrong time into the right places.

The past five years have been challenging for most restaurant owners, certainly. For Federico Rusciano, however, the experience had an unusual effect.

“I’m very religious now,” he says.

Two years ago he took over Bistro Moulin in Monterey, a European restaurant praised for its French classics. The location suits him – a comfortable setting where he can indulge guests with classic fare such as duck confit, gnocchi in Parmesan cream or coq au vin.

Rusciano’s tenure began as inflation drove costs into the stratosphere, raising difficult questions. How, for instance, does one hold menu prices within reason without sacrificing quality and still manage a profit?

But in 2020 he faced even greater uncertainty.

Tuesday, March 17 of that memorable year found Rusciano alternately storing items away and staring in disbelief at his walk-in cooler.

Rusciano’s timing was unfortunate. His new restaurant, The Pocket in Carmel, was scheduled for a grand opening the next day. The previous evening, however, Gov. Gavin Newsom called for dining rooms across the state to close. There were 392 confirmed cases of Covid in California, and that number was expected to grow.

“We didn’t know what was happening,” Rusciano recalls. “It was very scary for us.”

Born in Rome and trained in kitchens on Capri, Rusciano was familiar to area diners after eight years as general manager of Peppoli in Pebble Beach. Although he had weathered the usual highs and lows of the restaurant industry, there was nothing to prepare one for the ravages of a pandemic.

Between March and December of 2020, restaurant sales dropped by $240 billion nationwide, according to the National Restaurant Association. In Monterey County, popular destinations like Crema, il Grillo, Cult Taco and Sangria Wine and Tapas Bar fell victim to Covid.

“You were feeling pummeled,” Rusciano says. From then to now, he adds, “There have been five years of growth, personal and professional.”

The chef can claim two significant achievements in that span. He established a reputation for The Pocket that remains. And he built on the popularity of an existing restaurant, bringing a continental inflection to Bistro Moulin while retaining its French core.

Coq au vin – a frequent special – is prepared painstakingly, with ingredients brought together slowly. The result is a rich and rustic stew, at once earthy and sweet, tangy with a raspy bite, a drifting smoke and herbs basking in the sun. It is a cozy dish.

Moules frites is an equally simple yet nuanced presentation. Steak au poivre, as well – bathed in a sauce that speaks to the elegance of Old World technique, opulent and homey at the same time. Pan-seared salmon offers a delicate crackle, a hint of resilience before feathery flakes of meat appear to vanish on the tongue.

“The beauty of this restaurant is it provides an experience that is very intimate,” Rusciano explains. “The future is in specialized boutique restaurants.”

Bistro Moulin opened in 2007 with chef Didier Dutertre at the helm. Yet even with a steady following, the restaurant struggled during Covid.

“Most of the food they made here was not suited to travel,” Rusciano points out. “It was the same at The Pocket.” Rusciano balks at takeout or delivery, observing that most dishes are best when served from the kitchen directly to the table. As the 2020 shutdown continued, however, the chef almost caved in. He was working on a takeout menu when word came that indoor dining could resume. Eager to be out again, 300 guests descended on The Pocket that first night.

Now Rusciano appreciates a smaller kitchen and the rural village feel of Bistro Moulin. After the turmoil, after the pent-up demand, Rusciano believes people are looking for the easygoing comfort of a neighborhood spot. Although weathered from five years beset by pandemic, inflation and uncertainty, he flashes a ready smile.

“The biggest lesson is to live in the moment,” Rusciano says. “It doesn’t matter what happens, I know I can get through it.”

Bistro Moulin, 867 Wave St., Monterey. 333-1200, bistromoulin.com