When the folks at Del Monte Grill promise a toasted bun, they mean it—seriously.

The ebony char gives a crusty heft to the bread, which stands up to layers of beef, cheese, the usual supporting cast and a deceptive sauce, at once tangy and mellow, with a spark of peppery heat. More importantly, the bittersweet, smoky crackle echoes the rough-hewn huskiness of ground beef. The intense savor resounds, even through the sweet high notes of tomato and onion.

It’s a wonder other restaurants don’t push buns to the same limit.

The tidy diner on the Del Monte Golf Course reopened today, Feb. 15, after downtime for remodeling. The menu is new—smaller and more focused, with smashed burgers, a fried chicken sandwich, a couple of additional sandwich options, brats and a curry chicken salad, along with a bit of nostalgia.

Where else can you find a “flat dog” sandwich? An all-beef hot dog, sliced down the middle and butterflied on the grill, served on a regular bun—it’s a warm memory on a plate. If only they grilled bologna.

The breakfast menu is more limited, with two sandwich options or a three-egg burrito. Del Monte Grill, after all, is designed for those about to test their handicap or those retreating from the 18th hole after tearing up the scorecard—no need for evidence.

Some of the items are grab and go, with golfers—yes, even good ones—in mind. Service is a hybrid, as guests order at the counter and are responsible for condiments, plasticware and such. 

A weakness in the kitchen’s game shows when it comes to vegetarian options. Currently, offerings are limited to a vegan burger from the labs of Impossible Foods and a Caesar salad—to which, the menu notes, one can add grilled chicken.

But it’s a bright and casual space for lunch, with outdoor seating available, just beginning to feel its way. The menu could change.

On the crew’s first day of serving following a soft opening, they were unfazed by a large party and readily responded to customers confused by who was responsible for what—a good sign for the future. Joining a growing trend often cited as a way to ensure equitable pay, the restaurant tacks on a 17 percent service charge to orders

Del Monte Grill is part of the Pebble Beach Company umbrella. It sits next to the Hyatt Regency in Monterey.

Del Monte Grill is at Del Monte Golf Course, 1300 Sylvan Road, Monterey. Open for breakfast 7-11am and lunch 11am-2pm. Bar until 5pm. 373-2700, pebblebeach.com