Filet of Beef

The Lodge at Carmel Valley Ranch

1 Old Ranch Road, Carmel

625-9500, www.carmelvalleyranch.com

Tim Wood’s impersonation of Cal Stamenov deserves its own James Beard award, but his sourcing is in the same lofty vicinity. That is particilarly evident with his Hercules Ranch Black Angus filet, mouthwatering, melt-in-your-mouth manna-with-mojo for meateaters. As Wood builds a kitchen team and a kitchen bustle to rival any in the area, the CVR gate and tucked-away setting up in the hills above Mid-Valley help keep word on the Lodge quiet. Thomas Keller, who came through in ’12, is among those who get it: Wood is damn good.