Bay View Deli & BBQ
32 Cannery Row (on the Coast Guard Pier), Monterey
375-6958
It’s not a KGB code word, bratwurst’s tricky cousin or a nickname for Boris Yeltsin when he was drunk. Borscht is a reverie and a revelation, at least when Russian-born restaurateur Valentina Rapisarda preps it, a beet-based with a sweet, rich and fortifying broth so good it makes visitors to the semi-secret scuba diver deli forgive the bizarrely, unapologetically indifferent service.