Old Fisherman’s Grotto
39 Fisherman’s Wharf, Monterey
(831) 375-4604, oldfishermansgrotto.com
Just about every Western town had a restaurant, from lean-tos frying beans and sowbelly to the fancy Harvey Houses, staffed by women of good moral character. In fact, the Harvey House chain started on the plains and lasted into the 1960s, which means a few locations were still around when Old Fisherman’s Grotto opened. But no Harvey House could match the menu at the Monterey destination. Chef Juan Ponce prepares dishes like seared scallops in a sundried tomato sauce, local abalone over a citrus beurre blanc, macadamia-crusted halibut and the restaurant’s world-famous clam chowder. If the chef stooped to sowbelly, it would be on bruschetta with pecorino and chimichurri.
