Epsilon Restaurant

422 Tyler St., Monterey, (831) 655‑8108, epsilonrestaurant.com

One of John Steinbeck’s hobbies was fly fishing, but we like to think he and his best friend Ed Ricketts spent some time fishing in Monterey Bay. Among the many fish available for them to catch includes Pacific sand dabs. The small and quirky‑looking flat fish are ubiquitous on restaurant menus on the Monterey Peninsula. They have a delicate taste that is both slightly sweet and salty. The best way to prepare them is with a little seasoning, a fine coating of flour or breadcrumbs then frying in a pan or on a flat top grill. It sounds simple but sometimes the simplest cooking methods can go haywire and instead of delightfully crispy, you get soggy. While most local restaurants do right by the sand dab, the best filets we’ve eaten are at Epsilon. Epsilon’s sand dabs, with just the right amount of seasoning and crispiness, are perfectly served on top of a Greek salad. Opa‑licious!