Poppy Hall

589 Lighthouse Ave., Pacific Grove (831) 204-9990, poppyhallpg.com

We thought we understood the culinary soul of California. But that was before chefs Philip Wojtowicz and Brendan Esons opened Poppy Hall. They treat laid-back ingredients – chicken, duck, rock cod, quail and the like – with Michelin star elegance. Even desserts (which may be as simple as chocolate pudding) are otherworldly. And all of this is served in a lively dining room, with a poppy mural on the wall. So it’s a party out front but all business in the back. The menu varies, they serve brunch on Sundays and host a popular donut pop-up. It is informal and eclectic, creative and comfortable, but the flavors are intense.