Sardine Scorpion by John Cox

Sierra Mar at Post Ranch Inn

47900 California 1, Big Sur

667-2200, www.postranchinn.com

The tiny dish isn’t found on the menu, or anywhere else in the world: a tiny square of tender sardine steak perched on the end of a fried sardine backbone curved to look like a scorpion’s stinger. As conscious chefs around the world experiment with down-food-chain fish, this would be the gold standard. It also serves as an enlightening example of the type of devoutly local, inventive and trailblazing food Just think: If the sardine is this good, what will the Wagyu and local roe plates taste like?