A Holman Ranch Pinot Noir brings depth and approachability into a single glass.

Sheaths of sunlight through the branches bring a gleam to a waiting harvest of ripe cherries. Leaves almost cover the forest trail, releasing impressions of worn leather and cask vanilla. Bark peels from nearby trees, giving a sharp edge to the breeze.

A sip of the 2021 Three Brothers Pinot Noir from Holman Ranch is a morning stroll – easy, yet with a swirl of perceptions from fawning fruit to placid earth, with subtle dabs of raspberry, dried cranberry and cedar-lined humidor lend intricacy. There is an evenness to the wine, an elegant balance that keeps the acidity at bay without tugging it down to Earth. All the while, it’s the bright, friendly pop of cherry that makes the wine seem so affable. It’s a Pinot that one can take lightly or pause to appreciate its many layers.

Holman produces four distinct Pinots, each estate-grown and harvested by hand with homage to age-old Burgundian farming practices. The Three Brothers is a blend of three clones (although that’s not what’s behind the name; visit the tasting room for that story) aged in French oak – mostly neutral wood to allow fruit flavors to thrive, but a portion of new staves to lend a more refined character – for 11 months. A thin but noticeable tannic presence means all of this will develop further with a little cellar time.

But it might be hard to wait.

HOLMAN RANCH is at 18 W. Carmel Valley Road, Carmel Valley. 659-2640 ext. 2, holmanranch.com.