Michael Nevares of Other Brother Beer Co. has nothing against hops. But, he says, “the different things you can do with malt are just as interesting.”
The Seaside brewery’s Cerveza El Cuervo proves the point. Its deep amber hue and aromas of malt laced with coffee are reminiscent of a classic Vienna lager – with a dark side. Take a sip, however, and the beer sheds its serious veil and reveals a light, friendly character. A lean, crisp grain and a trill of fresh citrus lend a sunny aspect suited to a summer afternoon of radiant golden skies. But in whispers here and there El Cuervo reminds you of its overcast tone – a little note of caramel, a thin cafe Americano, a dusting of earthy spice. Nevares attributes this heartier craving to a dose of chocolate malted rye added to the mix of lighter malts. “It has just as much complexity as an IPA,” he says.
Other Brother’s brew crew based the beer on Negra Modelo and followed some of the traditions of Mexican lager, including bringing Vienna malt to the pilsner base. But they also wanted the beer to be dry and crisp – a light beer in dark clothing. So it’s a play on a Mexican dark lager and a clear departure from the IPA trend. Without the resinous weight of hops piled on top of hops, the beer takes on a buoyant attitude. El Cuervo could fill the role of a session beer.
To the point: “I drank three of those last night,” Nevares says. “It’s my favorite beer that we do, hands down.”
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