Splitsville

In the litany of sundaes, there is no dish so iconic as the banana split. A mention of it harkens to America’s soda fountain era. There are festivals dedicated to the indulgence, books and articles celebrate its existence and towns stake claim to its origin (sundae historians – which would be a coveted tenure-track post – tend to credit Latrobe, Pennsylvania).

Yet there was a time when the banana split’s popularity waned. New ice cream flavors distracted people from the routine of vanilla, chocolate and strawberry. And it can be a lot to take on in one sitting.

At Lucy’s on Lighthouse in Pacific Grove, however, the venerable treat thrives, in part because they are willing to play with the past. While the trinity of scoops may be doctrine for some, Lucy’s allows guests to pick their own flavors and offers a selection of toppings – a fortunate decision, because the popular spot’s signature ice cream is a perfect centerpiece for the dish.

Chiquita Rip Curl from Marianne’s Ice Cream blends peanut butter, fudge and chunks of peanut butter cup into a banana-flavored ice cream and the combination could not be more complementary – with the peanut butter easing an earthy tone into the sundae that calms the racier pineapple-strawberry dressing. Call for a scoop of vanilla on one side as a nod to tradition, but that’s as close as you can come to nostalgia at Lucy’s. Cinnamon Chocolate and Oregon Blackberry are the closest they come to plain chocolate and strawberry.

LUCY’S ON LIGHTHOUSE, 1120 Lighthouse Ave., Pacific Grove. 920-2006, lucyspg.com

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