J. Lohr represents its Monterey County roots with a couple of unexpected wines.

Two bottles make up J. Lohr Vineyards & Wines’ Monterey Roots collection, that’s all – one a White Riesling and the other a Valdiguié.

Yes, Riesling is by definition a white wine. A particular grape exists, however, known as Red Riesling. Although a white grape, the skin takes on a deeper pink hue. Monterey Roots is the winery’s way of celebrating its longstanding Arroyo Seco vineyards.

Dubbed Bay Mist, the 2021 vintage welcomes you with an aromatic swirl of fruit and spring flowers. Yet a faint bittersweet nip prepares you for something more than an uneventful sip. And you need to be ready, because the wine launches from the glass with rich, fruity intent – honeyed pear and baked apple, cured lychee and croissant with a twist of citrus. It’s an intriguing wine, yet also easy to appreciate and quite dry despite the fruit on the palate.

The Valdiguié received the label “Wildflower” for reasons clear on the nose. Also of 2021 vintage, the wine is an easygoing red that seems shy until slightly chilled. This brings out pomegranate notes. Yet there are impressions of black pepper and clove. The wine is light enough to balance a warm afternoon, but has enough character to accompany a barbecue.

Valdiguié is just coming into its own as a varietal. For decades it suffered from an identity crisis imposed by California vintners, who called it by various names, most notably Napa Gamay and Gamay Beaujolais.

Best for last: Each wine is priced under $15 a bottle. No wonder they quickly became difficult to track down.