Sheer, gleaming yet nuanced Riesling from Morgan finds just the right balance.

Riesling had it tough. Mass market labels sullied its name with cloying versions that put off all but novices.

That the varietal eventually prevailed in the New World is due to examples like Morgan’s 2017 Riesling. It greets you with aromas of nectarines hanging on the vine, fresh cut apples dipped in light clover honey and – if you concentrate – a hint of waxy lanolin. Winemaker Sam Smith tended more toward a classic Kabinett, treading a tightrope between sweetness and acidity by leaving it on the lees and playing first with stainless steel before laying the wine in French oak. On the palate it is brisk and jocular, tart lemon curd and sharp green apple notes dart from each sip, soaring over a more laden sensation of stewed pineapple. The bright charm of fruit never dampens until the finish. Like a setting sun, richer hues emerge – candied ginger, stripped balsa and honeycomb – and drape the back of the throat, not closing out the day but lending depth to a sharp, fruity, gleaming off-dry Riesling.

It’s a gorgeous wine.

MORGAN WINERY 204 Crossroads Blvd., Carmel. 626-3700, morganwinery.com