Plates Com Tam

On the outskirts of Seaside, in a little red brick building, one might not expect the latest and greatest in Vietnamese. But new restaurant Plates Com Tam defies expectation, promising to bring freshness and even seasonality to the end of Fremont Boulevard.

The clean and modern decor is a contrast to the humble exterior. Cute dark wooden booths lining the walls and center were pretty full for mid-afternoon, even for a Saturday. I suspected the spot already had a following, as I overheard a young guy nearby telling the friendly server he was “working his way through the menu” as she mentioned his previous visits.

Upon the first sips of almond-lychee boba, a traditional Vietnamese drink, I was already feeling sold. Sweet, nutty and fruity flavors mingled in milk, but the real fun happened chewing the gummy tapioca balls.

The Vietnamese crepe appetizer, bánh xèo, could make a meal in itself ($7.75). Arriving alongside a mouthwatering mountain of greens (lettuce leaves for rolling, cilantro, mint and green onions plus carrots and daikon) came a large yellow crepe, crispy and thin and packed with shrimp, pork, squid, mushrooms, onions and bean sprouts. Optional rice paper served with water to dip makes for unique tableside fun as hard circles of rice turn into soft wraps for everything on the plate.

Owner and creator Mikey Nguyen also owns the popular Chopstix spots – also known and loved for their boba drinks. Nguyen wanted Plates to provide nostalgic Vietnamese comfort food not featured at his other restaurants (like an array of savory rice porridges), he also wanted to offer classics like pho.

Pho tai bo vien (or beef and meatball soup, $7.50) appears first on the menu for good reason: It’s the most traditional and debatably most popular on the pho front. Hearty beef broth comes with an option for fresh, handmade rice noodles which come flatter and thicker than the classic thin pho option (also offered), and slipped around tender meatballs and beef slices. With the standard sriracha and hoisin sauce (to my heart’s content), the pho brought warm satisfaction.

Plates specializes in broken rice plates and offers a menu page dedicated solely to vegan items. I decided to try the veggie broken rice plate, or com tam xao tau hu ($8.99). The simple broken rice became a well-fitting home for sauteed broccoli, carrots, cabbage, mushrooms and shredded tofu in a richly flavorful yet light and brothy mushroom sauce. Wrapped in lettuce with a gingery kimchi, my senses were in heaven with sour, salty, sugar and umami.

I didn’t have room for dessert, although French-style beignet fritters (popular in Vietnam) are on offer ($3-$5.25).

From the boba to the broken rice, comfort was promised and comfort was delivered – along with refreshing coolness one usually doesn’t associate with soul food. Nguyen has done a wonderful job juxtaposing the two, so whether you need soothing warmth or crunchy greens, Plates has your plate covered.

PLATES COM TAM 1988 Fremont Blvd., Seaside • 11am – 8:30pm • 831-394-7653, platesgrill.com