Last week someone tried to play a Jedi Mind Trick on me.
I was touching base with Bernardus Lodge (658-3400), curious to see what new ownership and big staffing changes have meant – and would mean – for Chef Cal Stamenov and his landmark restaurant, one of my favorites and easily one of a handful of the very best along this stretch of the state. (Luxury hotel chain Noble House purchased the resort at the close of last year.)
I emailed his longtime assistant, the dynamic and thorough Gina Martin.
She replied with a note copied to longtime director of sales Sue Dreyer and an Alycia Rea with Zimmerman PR, saying he was gone for the day but I could track him down later in the week. We exchanged a couple more emails before I got one from a Lauren Fagler (also Zimmerman) saying, “We would love to provide additional information on Marinus and Wickets Bistro as well as to help facilitate an interview with chef.”
I told them I was interested (!), then she had this: “Would you mind emailing your questions over so we can coordinate with our client to get you those answers as soon as possible?”
Journalists can tell you this is reserved more for heads of state and celebs dodging scandal than gregarious chefs.
But her sense of control – whether she was being coy or feeling that strong in The Force – was so mysterious and powerful I had to play along. I sent over my questions and waited to hear when I could talk to Stamenov, the Weekly readers’ most regular pick for Best Chef in Monterey County in our annual readers poll (which prints March 20).
The questions: “What’s next for Bernardus? What excites you about potentially combining restaurants? Are there new menus in the works – particularly more affordable prix fixe menus? What’s been most challenging/empowering/original about the changes afoot?”
At this point any “facilitating” seemed to vanish like the Millennium Falcon jumping to light speed.
She told me there would be no interview because “chef won’t be able to answer any questions” because, well, “there aren’t any changes.” (You mean these aren’t the droids I’m looking for?!)
Oh, I replied, puzzled, but what about the dismissal of a number of managers, including GM Mike Oprish and Wine Director Mark Buzan? Or the departure of star Pastry Chef Ben Spungin, gone to Coastal Luxury Management, last seen directing traffic in the Vegas kitchen of Rose.Rabbit.Lie? Or Chef de Cuisine Abby Burk, who headed for Restaurant 1833? And the fact the restaurant now staffs zero bussers?
But still, changes come with new ownership. It’s not necessarily bad or good. So I tried again. “Like I said,” Fagler replied, “There haven’t been any changes. So there’s nothing we can talk about.”
~ ~ ~
This Sunday a boisterous private party occupied Marinus, so we slipped into Wickets, and fell back in love with the hammered copper bar and meaty duck confit pizza with shaved Brussels sprouts and goat cheese ($22). The foraged mushrooms ($12) reveal Stamenov still has as strong a team of foragers out there in the brush as anyone on the coast. The escargot soufflé with rich roasted garlic sauce, parsley, and Parmigiano-Reggiano with thin olive oil croutons ($13) is hypnotizing.
In keeping with the terms of the sale, which didn’t include the storied winery, there were still lots of Bernardus wines (21) with more on an additional list. And a molten chocolate truffle cake baked to order with cacao nibs, whipped cream and atmospheric banana ice cream was temperature-ranging heaven ($10) by the raging outdoor fireplace.
So maybe Flagler’s right. Maybe nothing has changed.
Or maybe that’s The Force again, because I heard from different staff other things I’d heard already: Wickets and Marinus will meet in an eventual merger, and the walls shielding the restaurant side from the lobby will go the way of Boba Fett. But an additional 14-room addition will happen first.
I tried Stamenov on his cell phone the next day. Suddenly I heard the voice of reason, the master who had permanently altered my understanding of all-vegetable tasting menus like Yodachanged Luke Skywalker’s understanding of his father.
“We’re regrouping,” Stamenov said. “What they want to do is bring in people they know. Food – and beverage-wise, I’m very comfortable with them. And it’s only been a month and a half. Things are still pretty slow around here this time of year.”
He says the chance for younger stars to move on and up is good for everyone.
“I’ve had lots of sous chefs and pastry chefs,” he says. “For the Tim Woods of the world, it’s important for people to leave after a while. It makes me work harder. Allows me to change things.”
Things that are in the offing, he says: more – and better – outside seating with an external bar; a more approachable $40 or $50 prix fixe menu; a Sunday brunch with bottomless Bloody Marys and Champagne by the glass; and a chance to “shoot a little harder from the hip regarding cocktails, wine and beer.” There’s something to the merger talk, too, and it makes sense. “I’d rather upgrade Wickets and casualize Marinus,” he says. The combo would serve three meals a day, as does Wickets.
Now I’ve got some droids to find. Or at least some more escargot.
QUICKBITES
• While Bernardus Lodge is now owned by a resort chain (see story, left), Bernardus Pon still owns the winery, which happens to be going gangbusters in the coming days with an Alegrothree-course wine pairing dinner 6pm Thursday, Feb. 27 with grower Matt Shea ($55, 625-9970); a WINO wonderland five-courser at Christopher’s March 7 ($84, 375-3935); and a Tarpy’sfour-course beauty by Cy Yontz Thursday, March 13 ($75, 647-1444).
• Avatar Indian Grill (443-2156) now dishes butter chicken and lamb vindaloo at 1568 Constitution Blvd. in Salinas next to Safeway.
• Overachieving Marilyn Remark on River Road has its Rhone-style wines flowing in the former Silvestri tasting room in Carmel Valley 1-6pm Thursday and Friday, noon-6pm weekends.
•Reminder: GourmetFest is on its way – and is just a month away at March 27-30 in Carmel.
•PS: A little thing called Pebble Beach Food & Wine cometh too, April 10-13.
• Schooner’s (372-BOAT) Social Hour 4-6pm weekdays does $3 13-ounce drafts, $7 fancy drinks and $5 galley bites on the bay. $1.50 oyster Fridays too.
•Half-price pizza Tuesday nights are back at Casa Sorrento (757-2720).
• Dawn’s Dream (659-2649) and its new open rustic tasting room are open 1-6pm daily (noon Saturdays) at San Carlos and Seventh in Carmel.
• Crema (324-0347) in Pacific Grove gets cracking an old-world-style crab feed $40 on Friday, Feb. 28.
• More crab: Ciao! Cioppino! ($100, 899-0492) benefits Legal Services for Seniors Saturday, March 1, at San Carlos Hall with Phil’s Fish Market super stew.
• Carmel Arts Alive launches in the Mundaka patio March 5, with food, music and young artists (see p. 28).
• Breaking news: Restaurants are hard. CSUMB wants to help local tastemakers with a community class called “Building Sales and Increasing Bottom Line in your Restaurant” 3-5pm March 6 at Small Business Development Center, 106 Lincoln Ave., Salinas (422-6232).
• Author/speaker Jim Rohn: “Either you run the day or the day runs you.”
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